Cricket's Nomad Tips

Rome, Italy

MOLTO BELLA! I have had three, too-brief stopovers here and love this city and want MORE.  There is a vibrancy here you find only in New York, Tokyo and London, along with a marvelous sense of history.  When you are visiting sites that were built in 72 AD, you can feel the years of history weighing on every bit of the town.  Growing up in Catholic school, my opinion of Rome was all about big churches and popes and I had no interest in visiting.  Yes, this is part of Rome’s fascinating culture, but the city is alive with fashion, art, food and fun. It is crowded and exhausting - you need to go to the outskirts to really see it.

Top 5 Days

1. Private Tour of the Vatican – We did a 3 hour private tour and it is well worth it.  This holy rolling extravaganza is the second most toured location in the world, right behind Disneyland.  We learned so much from our guide and got to go at our pace.  There is more art to see here then even the Louvre in Paris and the works are not all religiously related.  This history of Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel, the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica are fascinating.  Go on Wednesdays if you want to attend Mass.  Plus, I hit my 39^th country with this country of 900 population.
2. Ramble through Trasterverne – Spend the day ground at ground zero for hip and cool.   Shop, café, wino, stroll and observe.  I would compare this the Greenwich Village or the Mission in SF.  Just a few years older.  ;)
3. Check out Ancient Rome – See the Colosseum, Palazzo dei Conservatori, and the Roman Forums.  There are hordes of people here, so just plan on few hour to soak up the history.
4. Fountain Hop – Get a special map and wander the city by checking out every local piazza with a beautiful fountain as the center piece..
5. Shop for Contempory Art – We saw so many cool contemporary art stores, many quite casual, and I would have love to have come to specifically look for pieces, many established artists and explore other unknowns.

 

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Hotel Eden - I only stayed here on my Starwood points and it was a perfect use of points.  It is in a lovely location, but too high maintenance for my style.  Our room had an awesome balcony overlooking the city – but I never would have dished out the $1,200 per night.   We went to play dominos on the rooftop deck and it was so pretentious and stuffy. 
2. St. Regis - Yep, another stay on points. This is a great city to use any of your hotel points, as the hotel prices are outrageous.  Even the Best Westerns looked nice.
3. Tablet Hotels – I would trust any of the recommendations on this London-based operator’s site.
4. Chic Retreats – Great site to look for a tiny, boutique hotel.  I usually love to get city recommendations from the owners at these small places.
5. Casa Howard – 10 contemporary room , cozy rooms in two locations is like staying at your hip Italian friend’s pad.

Top 5 Foodie Finds

1. Sabatini – This is an elegant, yet casual seafood spot right on Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere with outside seating.   We chatted up a woman from Oakland, CA that had been coming since 1969 for the eggplant parmesan.   Try the seafood pastas and Roman artichokes.  The vibe is full energy in the Piazza so the elegance is mixed with fun.
2. Traverna Flavia - Awesome, authentic spot with great pastas. The carbonara here is one of the best dishes I have ever had.  Do it.
3. Wine Bars – Wine bars are great place to get small bites to each in a casual setting before a night out on the town.  Try hip, tiny Ferrara in Trastevere.  Food all over Rome is mixed especially in the tourist areas, so definitely hit guidebooks or ask the locals for recommendations.
4. Cafes – Make sure to make time to stop for a cappuccino or espresso along the way.  Relax and chat up the locals.  It’s also a great way to wake you up if you are fading after a long day of taking in all Rome has to offer.
5. Hamasei - After 10 days eating Italian and Croatian food, we were ready for some sushi.  We were surprised how good the sushi is here.  The fish is local and fresh.

Top 5 Tips

1. Book private Vatican or Rome tours directly – We booked through our hotel and it was marked up quite a bit.  Try Context Travel at contexttravel.com for Rome’s best art historians and PhDs to school you.
2. Siesta – I guess that is what the Italians shopkeepers do from 1 to 4 pm?  Well, when in Rome.
3. Stay for Week – You still would have tons to do.  Combine a trip to Umbria or Amalfi for the perfect vacation.
4. Get out of the super tourist areas a bit – then you will see true Rome.  And they know how to live.  They are partying, passionately fighting and making out all over town.
5. Don’t be afraid to be a tourist – Romans are proud to show off their city and it is truly filled with tourists.  I don’t care if I am carrying a map, a big ol camara and my white tennis shoes.  The nuns are.

 

Top 5 Misses

1. Skip the big group tours – We signed up for one at the Colosseum, and they ended up having about 30 people in the group.  They spent more time herding the cattle than giving the tour.  Try an audio tour instead.
2. Negotiate Before You Pay – For extra scoops of gelato, renting cars, etc…  Since tourism is down, everyone is trying to make a buck.
3. Watch the meter – Rome’s taxi drivers are notorious for adding costs.  Make sure  the red dot is on #1 before you settle into your seat.
4. Waiters – They move at their own pace and can be gruff at times.
5. Summer – You’ll be praying to the pope to get you outta hell in July and August.  Plus, the city shuts in August and they escape the heat and cool their sins in the ocean.

Croatia

Croatia

I spent a week here in the summer of 2009, along with a week in Italy.  We took a ferry from Venice to Rovinj in Istria and rented a car and drove down the coast to the islands.  This was an aggressive trip and we had to skip Dubrovnik in order to get it all in.  We absolutely loved Hvar Island and could have spent the entire week down on the Dalmatian Coast.  Hvar is the new St. Tropez with lots of glamourous people which makes it fun people watching destination but you can also do it more remote and just avoid Hvar Town.

Top 5 Days

1. Beach Stipanska – Head over on a 10 minute water taxi to this tiny island with a beach club, Carpe Diem.  The beach bar also has wonderful, fresh food, beach lounge chairs and a great swimming spot.  The bar is done in a sexy Moroccan style and the party starts at 10 pm and we heard goes til 4 am.  Of course, we missed that.
2. Plitvicka Lakes – Plitvice is Croatia’s best known wonder with 16 crystal=clear aqua lakes and countless waterfalls.  You can see the majority of it on a 3 hour hike.  You definitely won’t be alone, as this is quite a tourist destination. You don’t need to overnight here – we stayed at the Hotel Jezero and really didn’t like it. 
3. Explore the Roman Ruins – Everywhere you turn there are lovely hilltop towns and Roman ruins.  Driving through Istria reminds me of driving through Italy with the medieval castles, rolling hills and wine vineyards.
4. Learn history from the locals – Even young adults have experienced one the worst wars and ethnic cleansing.  Try to spend time at the local restaurants and learn from the locals.  They are a wonderful, giving community that have seen so much in their lifetime.
5. Get on the water – Hvar claims over 2,700 hours of sun fall per year so get out and enjoy it.  Rent a boat or kayak for the day or just hop in a water taxi or ferry between islands.  There are cute cobblestone paths connecting towns in Hvar that would be fun on a bike or motor scooter.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Villa Angelo D’Oro in Rovinj – This quaint, Bavarian style hotel was smack in the middle of the darling seaside town of Roninj.   You can’t even drive to the hotel, which is on a cute little cobblestone street.   It is filled with lovely Croatian antiques with views to the sea.
2. Riva Hotel – The window to our room opened right on the water where all the yachts dock for the day.  This is modern and ultra chic and we loved the location.  It is part of a collection of 8 hotels, a spa and beach clubs in Hvar and your have an evil little card that gives you passes and pays for them all.   Even though our room is a tiny shoebox, we loved it.
3. Hotel Podestine – If you want to go to Hvar Town but want to be a stone’s throw away from the high-action nightlife, then this is your spot.  It is set amongst palm and citrus trees and is a 20 minutes walk or quick water taxi from the riva.
4. Rent an Apartment – This is one of the most popular things to do and with restaurants, boats and services outside your doorstep, you don’t need all the services of a hotel.  Our friend Mark has cute places in Split and Hvar.  He is a Brit, so you’ll have no problem with a language barrier.  Check out www.hvarandsplt.com.  Tell him Cricket sent you.
5. Grand Villa Argentina – We were going to stay here in Dubrovnik, but stayed in Hvar Town instead.  It looks lovely and is right on the water.

Top Foodie Finds

1. Gostionica Santa Croce in Rovinj – Istrian food reminds me of a mix of Italian and German.  We had superb lamb pasta and grilled squid.  
2. Palaca Paladini on Hvar – This was one of our favorite restaurants of the entire trip with slowed cooked Croatian coastal food.  We had delicious smoked fish carpaccio, scallops and seafood pasta in a delightful garden setting filled with jasmine and orange trees.
3. Lamb or Sqid Peka – Wow, you have to experience this dish.  We were lucky enough to have Mark’s (friend of Andy) neighbors host this at their house on Hvar.  A peka is a metal, ball-shaped lid the covers the main meat an veggies while cooking on a hot ceramic slab.  The lid is also covered in hot ash so it cooks from the top.  You can order these one day in advance at traditional restaurants.
4. Alviz – A local hangout in Hvar with traditional fish soups and seafood pastas.  We went with a large group and the Croatian wine was flowing.
5. Fresh seafood – On the coast, you can’t go wrong with fresh squid, scallops or fish.  Even the small, local, inexpensive places carry quality seafood. 

Top Tips

1. Sailboat or Yacht – This is the way to see the coast.  You can hit 167 little island and stop off at the great cites for fancy dinners and nightlife.   This is not expensive to do at all if you have a group of friends.
2. Go in shoulder season – Late June or September are the ideal times to go.  Winters are dead and July and August we heard are jam packed. 
3. Kunas – Croatia is still not on the Euro so your dollars will go further.  I think the days of this being dirt cheap for Americans has passed, and we found the prices to be slightly lower than the US.
4. Take 2 weeks to do the whole country – We tried to shove too much into one week.  Or hit one week for the southern coast.  There is so much I still want to do after a week there!  I really wanted to head to Mostar in Bosnia for the day from Dubrovnik, but just didn’t have the time.
5. Rent a car only in one country – You’ll pay crazy costs to drop in Slovenia or Italy.  We rented with Hertz and they even brought the car to our Rovinj hotel.

Top Misses

1. SCUBA Diving – Although it was nice to get out on the water, there was very little underwater life and really basic reefs.  We did this through Beach Divers on Stipanska beach and liked the operation.
2. Skip the car in Hvar – We kept our car and headed over on a car ferry and never used it once.  It limited our ferry times and cost extra to transport.
3. Limit the Ferry Use – There are great ferries between Split, Hvar and Dubrovnik , between Venice and the Istrian coast and between Central Italy and Split.  But many are slow and don’t leave that frequently, so you definitely need to plan ahead.
4. Split – With limited time, I would focus on Hvar, Dubrovnik or the smaller islands.  This is great port as a launching pad for the other local sites.
5. Rick Steves’ Book – I went back to my trusty Frommer’s on this trip, as I found his book to be geared toward an older crowd with church recommendations and no outdoor adventures.

Paris, France

I backpacked here, was here on business a few times, have been on romantic holiday and went in 2009 for a weekend to meet my cousin and her darling family that live in London.  I went back in 2012 with 6-month-old baby Charlie.  What a special place!

Top 5 Hotels

I have stayed here a couple times using Starwood Points, so limited experience.  I really only have stayed at the Westin on Starwood and thought it was a perfect location. I would save your money and just stay someplace central.  You’ll be out exploring and partying, so no need to stay at a nice place.  Look into renting an apartment if you have a few people.

Top 5 Restaurants

I went to this city 2 times and didn't think the food was great but third time was a charm!  I watched Anthony Bordain's 100th episode of No Reservations that covered Paris Michelin Star Chefs that opened casual eateries.  Jackpot!

1. Le Comptoir - One of my favorite dining experiences ever.  This is a cool little rustic place with real French food.  Come hungry.  Amazing.
2. Atelier de Joel Robuchon - His other place is too swanky.  This one is really nice and only Prix Fix but you sit at the counter and they bring plate after lovely plate of deliciousness.
3. Le Chateoubriand - Cool casual eaterie with a simple inside.  Jessica Alba was at the next table. Still pricey.
4. Le Bal - Great brunch or lunch spot near Montemarte.  Cool and casual.
5. Search for the perfect Pan de Chocolate - I hope I never find it.  I want the search to last forever!

Top 5 Things to Do

Where to begin…!  There is so much to do here.  I feel like you could just go to Museums forever.

1. Musee d’Orsay – This is my favorite museum in the entire world.  The artwork is nice, but it is the architecture of the old train station that blows me away.  I could spend a whole day here by just exploring a few exhibits and just relaxing under the sun0drenched windows.
2. Explore Mortmarte – This is a great neighborhood with incredible vistas of the city.  Feels totally authentic.  Just stroll and have a pan a chocolate or glass of pinot gris at every café.
3. Canal Tour  - I know this sounds cheesy, but this is so beautiful along the Sienne, and a great way to get your bearings in the city on the first day.
4. Shop and Stroll St. Germain – Lovely little boutique stores and cafes make this an entire day excursion.
5. Eiffel Tower – This is so lovely at night and worth a tourist trip to the top to see the entire city.

Top 5 Tips

1. Do nothing – This is the best city in the world to just stroll and sit in cafes.  I love Frommer’s Day by Day Paris book for neighborhood walk suggestions.  But don’t follow I all – just loose yourself in it!
2. Just enjoy the attitude -- Yes the French are... well, French.  Don't let them get you down.  If I lived there, I wouldn't want tourists messing with the beauty either.  Just soak it in as part of the experience.
3. Ride the Metro - It is easy and a great way to explore real life in Paris.
4. Museums - This is the best collection of museums in the world.  Hit one a day - d-Orsay, Louvre, Pompidou, Palais de Tokyo, the Modern Art Museum, the Rodin... ah.
5. Get ready to hoof it - I've never been to Paris without some kind of trucking, metro, police strike.  They'll strike anything and it brings the city to a halt.  Yet no one seems to mind.  Don't let it ruin your time.

 

Zihuatanejo, Mexico

Went here for some R&R after a pretty crazy time in Dec 2008.  We rang in the new year here.  This is by far up and away my favorite place in Mexico.  And La Casa Que Canta is the most romantic hotel I have ever been.

 

Top 5 Days

1. Las Gatas Beach - We would take a water taxi over to the small beach across the bay and drink margaritas, each lobster tacos, swim and take off for scuba.
2. Scuba - Andy got certified from Carlos Scuba Shop, which is the oldest scuba shop in all of Mexico.  We saw sea turtles, sea horses and all kinds of sea critters.
3. Relax on the deck - Breakfast on the deck every morning and evening with dominoes every night.  Many guests never leave the hotels because of the great views.
4. Fishing - Well, we didn't catch anything but had a great time trolling.
5. Go into town for a couple hours- The town is filled with Mexican families on vacation.  It isn't posh but has so much character and people are so nice.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. La Casa Que Canta - I can't say enough about this gem.  Only 23 rooms and they are all cut into the side of a cliff. All have balconies with amazing views of the darling bay.  Spendy and romantic. 
2. The Tides - This is the other big hotel in the area.  It is on the beach and better for families, but we thought it was just a typical resort.  I would recommend other places.
3. Amuleto - Gorgeous 6 room boutique hotel with hip, high style with stunning views.  A bit further out, but only a $4 cab ride to town.
4. Rent a House - Stay in the hills.  I would recommend staying near La Ropa beach.  Don't stay in town.  If you can get your own pool, it is worth it.  You may want to be within 10 minutes walk to the beach.
5. Las Brisas - This is in Ixtapa and is big, but we heard a great place for families.  Andy went years ago with his family. We snorkeled near there and it looks like they have a nice private beach.  Not set with all the other Ixtapa high rises.

 

Top 5 Foodie Finds

1. Amuleto - Most special meal we had here. A must.
2. La Casa Que Canta - Definitely come here for a special meal.
3. Villa de la Selva - A special, happening place in Ixtapa.
4. Tentaciones - Prix Fix menu with an open-air garden view of the bay.
5. Otilia - Lobster tacos and margs at Las Gatas beach.

 

Top 5 Misses

1. Restaurants in Town - Nothing special.
2. Summer - Weather was perfect in January and we heard it is excruciating in the summer.
3. Anything but seafood - It is a fresh catch every day, why eat anything else?
4. Ixtapa - Ziha is worlds away just around the corner.
5. Beaches - This has really pretty beaches, but not the most dramatic in the world.  The charm here is the combo of beaches and mountains.

 Top 5 Tips

1. Cabs - Are safe and aobut $3 anywhere.
2. Look for direct flights - there are some direct flights from SFO on certain days on Alaska Airlines.
3. Rates are drastically different - New Years and Easter are packed cause the Mexican families have the holiday off.  Go in the spring or winter and you will have great weather and not the highest prices.  Yet, we loved New Year's fireworks on the beach.
4. Book in advance - Amuleto and Casa Que Canta book out months in advance.
5. Enjoy the locals - I loved that this was not all gringos.  You get some tourism, but you are with the locals.

Buenos Aires, Argentina and Patagonia, Chile

I went here for a 2 week trip in May of 2008.  We did a week in Buenos Aires, a few days in Mendoza (wine country) and a week down in Patagonia.  Perfect combo!

 

Top 5 Days

1. Strolling through Soho and Palermo -- So great to just walk around and catch the big city vibe. Have an Evita day and go to the cemetery and small museum.
2. Soccer Match - Yes, it is a crazy as you've heard.  The bring in the fans of the opposing team after the game starts and they are behind a chain fence.  Then they leave first while home team fans sit in their seats, cause there is so much fighting.
3. Take a ferry to Uruguay - Walk around the historic town of Colonia. You can also stay overnight at beach resorts.
4. Hit a night out in San Telmo - This was our favorite neighborhood.  Full of character and life.
5. Ride Horseback through Patagonia - We didn't see anyone else for hours.  We rode through streams, over mountains and ended the day at a farm BBQ.

 

5 High Style, High Maintenance Hotels

We stayed at a Luxury Collection hotel using our Starwood points.  It was high style, but also high maintenance, so I wouldn't recommend it.

1. Explora - This is the most remote and wonderful hotel ever down in Torres De Paines, Patagonia.  It is a loooooong way to get there, but well worth it.  It is simple and they make sure you have an amazing hike or horse ride every day.  Perfect!
2. Home Hotel - My friend Lina stayed here in Buenos Aires and raved.
3. Mine Hotel - Another boutique hotel in Buenos Aires we heard wonderful things about.
4. Apartments - Rent an apartment in Sal Telmo in Buenos Aires.
5. Cavas Wine Lodge - This is such a special spot in Mendoza.  You have your own cabana with roof where you can sleep in sleeping bags looking at the stars.  Food, wine, artwork and service are top notch.  The epitome of high style, low maintenance.

  
Top 5 Foodie Finds

1. Desde El Alma - A cozy french bistro in San Telmo.
2. El Gran Danzona - A cool sushi and bar joint.  Very hip.
3. Bar Uriate - Good little stop in BA.
4. Melipal - Our most delicious meal of the whole trip in a vineyard in Mendoza.
5. Explora - We ate gorgeous meals by the fire every night.

 
Top 5 Misses

1. Meat - There is way too much of it.  Try to exlore bites other than steak houses.
2. Pollution - BA is dirty!
3. Tango - This was fun, but very touristy.  If you are going to do it, then go to a little place like El Viejo Almacen in San Telmo.  We did just the show and had a lovely dinner beforehand.  Just not our thang.
4. Mendoza - We liked it, but it was snowing while we were there.  I would have preferred to go to the falls or the Lake District.
5. Big Hotels - There are so many lovely boutiques to explore.

 
Top 5 Tips

1. Weather - Make sure you go the right time of year. We were there in late fall in May, and it earlier fall or spring are tops.  Remember, opposite seasons as the States.
2. Evita - I became obsessed.  I read a biography and watched the movie.  Her story added so much to my love of this area.
3. Cab it - super cheap, no need to get a car.
4. Patagonia - Heck, you are already almost there.  I can't rave enough about it.  It is hell to get to, but worth it!
5. Iguasu Falls - people raved and we wish we would have done instead of Mendoza.  Next time.

Wine Country, Northern California

Wine Country, California
Every Year: 1998 to present
This is one of my favorite places to relax and unwind.  Life is so simple with the best vineyards, world-class restaurants and town folk all passionate about food and wine.  I f I needed a day of relaxation or needed to see the sun, would head up here with friends from SF for the day or weekend.

Top 5 Days

1. Bike through the vineyards - Rent bikes from downtown Sonoma or Calistoga (they will have suggested route maps) for an easy pedal through to 5 vineyards.  Really, it is flat, so you don't have to be in great shape and you'll burn off those cab calories.
2. Massage and Mud Bath in Calistoga - Indian Springs is so retro and coo.  The pool is warm year round.
3. Vineyard to vineyard with a driver - pack a picnic lunch from Oakville Grocery Store and relax and do winetasting all day.  Set up a couple of full tours at the small wineries and just pop into others.  Some favorites are Clos Pegas to view art, Benziger (not Beringer) for truck tour on the growing process, Round Pond is amazing and make sure to hit one of the sparkling vineyards.  Stay clear of the really big vineyards.
4. Stroll through Healdsburg - this is a darling town, then head to the JimTown Store.
5. Golf or lay by the pool - the spas and service everywhere here are great.

Top 5 Foodie Finds

1. Bistro Jeanty - One of my world favorites!  A darling French restaurant where you can sit outside and enjoy dinner followed by wine and cheese.
2. Redwood - in Yountville but you almost feel like you are in NYC.  Awesome, hip pizza joint.  Amazing meatballs and buffalo motzerella.
3. Bouchon - Oysters and crisp whites. Or mussels and fries.
4. Taylor's Refresher - Best burgers and malts around town.
5. Round Pond Winery - Go for the most amazing $25 tasting on a deck overlooking the vineyards and get 3 little fab appetizers.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Hotel Healdsburg - very hip, no country frills here.
2. The Kenwood Inn - I adore the Italian-style pool and rooms.  This is away from it all in Sonoma.
3. Solage - Amazing food, great pool, workout classes included.  And they have 2 bikes at every cottage.  SO cute.
4. Bardessono - Green, hip in Younteville.  Pair this with French Laundry and you've got a Bucket List!
5. The Farmhouse Inn - This is my friend Amy's favorite, so it can't be wrong.  In Sonoma.

Top 5 Misses

1. Snobby, cigar-smoking East-coast blokes.
2. The heat - it is a scorcher here in the summer
3. Expensive wine tastings.  If you buy a bottle, most places won't make you pay.
4. Frilly hotels - too much "I Heart Country" here.  Just plan ahead to avoid a teddy bear on your pillow.
5. If you aren't a foodie or wine fan - then pass on wine country.  If you think you have the potential to be a foodie or wine lover, then I promise you will be after a few days here.

Top 5 Tips

1. Book hotels and restaurants before - the great little hotels and eateries book early.
2. Experiment - try new foods and wines.  I spent a week here learning and asking everything I could about pairing cheese and wine.  Basically, I learned it is all good.  ;) Oh, and it is fattening... 12 pounds later.
3. Engage waiters, bartenders, sommeliers - they live for food and wine.  Tell them what you like, what you are eating, price range and ask for recommendations.  This is how I've discovered my all-time favorite wine:  Hourglass.
4. Share tastings - most places will let you share a tasting with your friend.  This will also help you avoid the mid-day hangover.
5. There's more to wine country than Napa - I prefer Sonoma, Healdsburg and Calistoga.  Not near as touristy.

San Francisco

 

 

 

This is my town with some of the best people in the world.  I LOVE it and could fill the entire blog just with foodie recommendations.

 

Top 5 Days

1. Hike and Oysters – Drive up to Point Reyes and take the hike back to a tiny lake with a rope swing.  Gorgeous views of the Pacific Ocean along the hike.  Drive a bit further to Tony’s Oyster Shack for beer in a frostie mug and BBQ oysters on Tomales Bay.
2. Glide Church – Get there early for the best gospel music ever.  This is a non-denominational church that welcomes anyone – and trust me, there is every walk of life here.  Listening to this choir would convert any atheist.
3. Dominos at the Ramp – Take your friends and some bones to a Sunday afternoon at the Ramp.  This is a little bar on the water overlooking big shipping containers.  Not fancy at all. The salsa dancing starts at 5.  Coronas and bloody marys flowing all day long.
4. Golden Gate Park – Check out the recently remodeled De Young Museum for Asian art, rollerblade and go to the Japanese Tea Gardens.  Try to go on Sunday afternoon to watch the Roller Disco group, let by the Sheik of Blade.  This guy wears a silver turban, brings a huge speaker system to the park and plays old school hip hop while a loyal crowd roller blades.  The best free entertainment in town.
5. Steep Ravine Hike - best workout on Mount Tam. Loosen up those burning legs with a glass of wine at the Mountain Lodge.

High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Hotel Vitale – Very simple in a great location right across from the Ferry Building

2. Waters Edge – Take a ferry over to Sausalito for great views of the city and a chill vibe.

3. Adagio – Simple and good value.  In Union Square.  In the center of town, so everything is a short cab ride away. Neighborhood isn't great

4. Huntington Hotel – Beautiful on Nob Hill.

5. The Clift – A bit too cool, but the Redwood Room is historic for late night country club cocktails.

Foodie Finds

1. Zushi Puzzle – atmosphere isn’t great.  But see Roger, the best sushi chef in town, for Kobe Beef Surprise and the best cuts of raw fish.

2. Foreign Cinema - This is a special treat.  They place French films outside.  Great food and service and you won't find anywhere else like it.

3. Slanted Door – A big restaurant in the Ferry Building, so sit at a table on the water.  Delicious, high-end Vietnamese. Also try OTD on Filmore Street.

4. Chez Panisse - Why not go to Alice Water's famous restaurant while you are here?  Organic and picked or caught that day.

5. Delfina – The best little foodie spot.  Get the salad with pancetta.  In the heart of some of my favorite Mission foodie places – Bi Rite, Limon, Tartine Bakery. 

Misses

1. Weather – pack layers… Mark Twain was right, “The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.”

2. Late Nights – This is no New York.  You have to search for a great place late night.
3. Homeless – I couldn’t believe it when I went back and stayed in Union Square.  It is so sad.
4. Fisherman’s Wharf – Skip it.  So commercial and there are so many other great things to do.  The only reason I would go is to catch a ferry to Sausalito, Angel Island or Alcatraz.
5. Beaches – They are beautiful, but such a tease.  Frigid water.

Tips

1. Sit at the bar – If you want to learn about wine or get the best cut of toro, then sit at the bar and chat up the sushi chef or bartender
2. Don’t rent a car – Take cabs and only rent a car to get out of the city.
3. Get outside the city – The city becomes truly the best in the world only if you get to hike in Marin, have Coronas in Tiburon or rent bikes in wine country.
4. Hoof it – Like Paris, the best way to see this city is just to stroll through the neighborhoods.  Walk in Jack Keroc’s footsteps through North Beach.  The city is only 7 miles wide and deep.  You can get to know it fast.
5. Tales of the City – A fun read by Armistead Maupin that chronicles a group of friends living in Russian Hill.  The flavor of the city hasn’t changed.

 

 

 

 

Cambodia

March 2007 - Got to take a sidetrip here from a Yahoo! Conference in Singapore with Meg Garlinghouse.  Angkor Wat has always been on top of my places to visit.  What an amazing country - put it at the top of you list.  Stayed in Siem Reap, so we were close to Angkor Wat.

Top 5 Days

1. Angkor Wat - The mother of all temples.  Get there at 5 am to avoid the crowds and the heat.  This is on my top places of the world.
2. Floating Villages - Take a boat ride down the river to the land of true nomads.  These folks rarely see land, as their homes are on stilts in the water.  Have a drink watching the sun set on the water.
3. Markets - Wander through the markets to pick up local pottery, wood carvings and linens.
4. Spa - Spend a day at Hotel de la Paix with fresh fruit for breakfast, a Thai-style massage and dip in the pool.
5. Other Temples - Check out Bayon, the Passages of Elephants and the temple where Tomb Raider was filmed.

Top 5 "High Style, Low Maintenance" Hotels

Hotel de la Paix - one of my favorites in the world.  Don't stay anywhere else.  Fits my high style, low maintenance description perfectly.  Amazing service, spa, vibe, food and outdoor dining with fire pits everywhere.  In the heart of the city, so you can walk to all the local spots.  iPods in every room that have tours of Angkor Wat that you can take with you.

Top 5 Restaurants

1. Khmer Kitchen - We had 3 courses and 4 beers for $11.  Really.
2. FCC - A great local hotel to grab a cool dinner.
3. Markets - Grab fruit and nuts during the day.
4. Khmer Set - A 9-course meal with mini plates at the Hotel.
5. Raffles - This is famous, so worth a lunch or dinner here.

Top 5 Misses

1. Artisan Markets - these are sanitized for western travelers and prices marked up. Hit the local markets.
2. The heat - get up early and stay inside during mid-day.  Cooking here.
3. Local peddlers - many locals rely on tourism to live.  So they are quite aggressive to sell things and help you.
4. Khmer Rouge - 1.7 million Cambodians were killed in a mass genocide by Pol Pot in the late 1970s.  Hard to believe this happened during my lifetime.  Don't miss watching the Killing Fields and reading the history before you visit.
5. Discrimination - Just like all countries, many Cambodians have prejudices against other countries.  They have a real disdain for the Thai.  In 2003, a Thai movie star said Cambodia should give Angkor Wat back to the Thai people.  Within 10 minutes, all the Thai restaurants, embassies and local shops were burned.

Top 5 Tips

1. Killing Fields - Watch to help understand the turmoil of the 70s.
2. First They Killed My Father - Written by a gal my age, Loung Ung, about the Khmer Rouge genocide.  The author lost most of her family to Pol Pot.
3. Visa - get one on line before you visit.
4. Plan with the seasons - hot as hell in April.  Come when it is not scorching.
5. Hotel de la Paix Concierge - if you plan this, you don't have to plan anything in advance.  They will do it all for you.  They hook up tour guides, drivers, restaurants and spas.