Cricket's Nomad Tips

Barcelona & Northern Spain

June 2011

We did San Sebastian, wine country, a visit through the Pyrenees, Barcelona and the island of Majorca in a two-week trip.  This is gorgeous country and each section has such unique landscape from the others.  Barcelona is one of my top cities in the world.  It has it all: culture, incredible foodie food, beaches, art, cool people, mountains, gorgeous architecture, fun nightlife and easy trips to islands, skiing and wine country. I think a Barcelona/Majorca trip is ideal, as you would get the most of city and relaxation.  And the flight to Majorca is 50 minutes and 35 Euros.  Spain is a high recommendation from me!

Top 5 Days

1. Hiking to secluded swim spots in Majorca - The island can seem filled with tourists, but you can easily get off the beaten path an find spots with just a few other folks.  The pic above is from a restaurant in Deia, on the west side of the island where there were only about 30 folks. Other spots only had a few people. Parts of Majorca reminded me of the Almalfi coast, with gorgoues cliffs, water and towns cut into the side of mountains.
2. Graze your way through San Sebastian - This town has more Michelin stars per square mile than anyplace on earth.  It is home to two 3-star restaurants.  And this trickles down even into the tapas bars and tiny restaurants.
3. Cycling through Barcelona - This is the perfect city to ride.  We rode for miles down the beach, and all through the city.  There are bike lanes everywhere and the little side streets welcome bikers.  We did this 2 days in a row and stopped at tapas places along the way cause we loved it so much.
4. Explore Art in Barcelona - Explore Guadi's Sagrada Famila and Parc Gruell.  Hit the Picasso museum.  And there are a ton of museums, galleries, sculptures and outside art to explore.
5. Drive the Pyrenees - We loved this drive from San Sebastian to Barcelona.  We hit Andorra, France and the most beautiful mountains, lakes and streams along the way.

 

 
Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Marques de Riscal - This Frank Gehry designed hotel is so fricken cool.  We stayed for free, as it is part of Starwood points and it made us wander to an area of Spain we normally wouldn't have gone. This is in the small town of Elciego, in the Rioja wine region, about 1.5 hours south of San Sebastian.  At first, the looks are a bit jarring, as it is a modern design in a little stone winery town.  But it is unique Gehry style and the interior are gorgeous.  Awesome food and views. True high style, low maintenance.
2. Hospes Villa Paulita - This was a cute little hotel in a quaint, quiet town in the Girona region, right on the French border near France.  We visited this region so we could drive the Pyrenees, which was well worth it.  We crossed the border to France, which was fun.
3. Hotel Maria Christina - This is a Belle Epoque grand hotel in San Sebastian.  It was too big and fussy for us, but it was free through Starwood points.  Great location and service.  But doesn't really officially make the high-style, low maintenance list (it is high maintenance). I would do it again free.
4. W Barcelona - Again, a free hotel from Starwood.  This looks like it should be in Dubai and is the biggest W I have seen at 26 floors.  It is a bit off the city center, as it is on the beach but that has huge advantages.  We hit the pool or beach every day after exploring the city.  Our room, the service and the beach were awesome so I would do it again.
5. Majorca - Small boutique hotel on West side - We stayed at Can Simoneta, a small, lovely hotel on the East side of the island.  It had wonderful views, but was a bit "old" for us.  We also really, really loved the East side and the gorgeous cliffs and buildings cut into the side of mountains.  Try something near Deia.

 

Top 5 Foodie Finds

1. Cinc Sentis -  A wonderful 8-course tasting menu opened by a couple of ex-Silicon Valley execs.  True creativity and gorgeous local foods.  The cheese plate is the best I have ever had.  Barcelona has food that rivals SF.
2. Tapas bars in Barcelona - Our favorites were Tapac 24, Koy Shunka (Japanese and sushi) and Cap Pep. We could have done this day for hours. I think the perfect way to eat is to just graze all day. We did this in San Sebastian also, but the innovation and quality in Barcelona was so much finer.
3. Chorizo - I have never been a fan... until now.  This is what I wanted every single meal - with some olives and fresh bread.
4. Comerc 24 - This was another full tasting menu of Spanish cuisine inspired by goodfather Ferran Adria (el Bulli).  Innovative, reasonably priced and paired with awesome wines.
5. Seafood - We ate more grilled squid, shrimp and catches of the day than any trip I have been on. The fish is so fresh and simply prepared.  Plus, there isn't much chicken and we never really had good beef.  So pork and seafood are it.

Top 5 Tips

1. Eat late - Lunch is around 2 and you don´t want to go to dinner before 9.  This is my kind of country.
2. Siesta - THE most delicious word in the world.  Partake. Note that shop hours are closed from 1:30 to 4:30 so be sure to prepare your day and your siesta in advance.
3. Visiting time - Avoid August, as the locals leave, northern Europeans decend and it is muy caliente. May June and September October are ideal.  In late June, the weather was ideal, except in wine country it was too hot.
4. Foodies: Get reservations in advance - Think of it like going to NY or SF and expecting to get into the hot, new restaurants that day.  After complete failure in San Sebastian, we found specific places we wanted to go in Barcelona and had the concierge do the work.  But we really wanted to get into ex-Bulli chef's new Tickets, and we tried a month and half out and they were booked. Watch Anthony Bourdain's episode for foodie ideas outside of Barcelona.
5. Language - Don´t expect your Spanish to do the trick.  Most place we went are all Catalan and English is spoken in the service places, but not universal.

Top 5 Misses

1. Tolls - The roads and bridges are first rate here, but you will pay for them.  Seemed like every stop was 11 Euros.  Highest I have ever seen.
2. Crime in Barcelona - Pickpockets abound.  We heard gals at our hotel say there purse straps were sliced and everyone warns constantly.  And apparently the police don't do a thing.
3. Andorra - We checked out this little country on the border of Spain and France.  It may be great in ski season, but it is overfun and commercial.  The towns nearby are darling, so there are options close by.
4. Concierge Restaurant Recommendations - After a couple of requests for local food that landed us in Fisherman Wharf style restaurants in San Sebastian and Barcelona, we wised up and used my Luxe guide and Chowhound and our world changed.  
5. Las Ramblas in Barcelona - Too many tourists and mimes. Skip it.

Portugal

June 2011

Would have loved to have had time to explore the southern coastal Algrave area but kept this trip to the Lisbon area.  We did this area in 4 Days - 5 or 6 would have been great, but that would be enough for this area.  We stayed in Caiscais (pronounced cash-case), Sintra and Lisbon.

Top 5 Days

1. Explore Sintra - This small, hillside town with Moorish influence was once a summer retreat to many kings and queens.  Just walking through the small town and wandering via an easy bus ride to the royal summer retreat castle is a pleasure.  Only 40 minutes from Lisbon, this is a must.  Lord Byron called it "glorious Eden."

2.  Bike along the coast of Caiscais - We just grabbed bikes from our hotel and rode to a far off lighthouse, the Boca do Inferno (mouth of hell) and into town.  There is a great bike path stretches for miles.  It is a bit hilly but relatively easy.

3. Explore the Barrio Alta in Lisbon - We roamed through this cool area, ate and just explored.  You can cover a lot of the great Lisbon neighborhoods on foot - right next to the Alfama, so hit up both neighborhoods by foot in a day.

4. Cafe culture - Lisbon, like other great European towns, is best explored by walking 1/2 mile or so, then stopping for an espresso or beer.  That's a day in itself.

5.  Swimming in Caiscais - The Atlantic here is cold - think Lake Tahoe cold - but refreshing and the beaches are cute and filled with local families and Euro vacationers.  All the beaches are a short walk to town and there are some cool cliffs to jump from into the water.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

 1.  Farol Design Hotel - This is a hipster hotel in the perfect location in Caiscais, about 10 minutes walk from the center.  I loved the view from the pool, because it sits on short cliffs overlooking the water.  There is no beach here, but it is just a short walk to a few.  The pool and outside bar area are prime for dominoes and a summer cocktail. Request a room with a view of the sea - no terrace needed.

2. Casa Miradouro - Loved this little 6-room B and B in Sintra.  It is a 5-10 walk from the center of town, which we thought was perfect.  Don't think I would want to stay in the town center cause it is touristy.  There is a lovely breakfast outside in the morning and it is on a hill with a gorgeous view of the valley and the Atlantic.  I don't like small B and Bs, as over-zealous owners and teddy bears dressed in lace scare me, but this is large enough to disconnect and was ruffle free.

3.  As Janales Verdes - A wonderful boutique hotel in Lisbon.  There is a darling library upstairs with a beautiful terrace overlooking the water.  There is an honor bar and it is a great place to relax away from your room. The hotel is a bit off the beaten path - maybe a 20-minute walk from the center of town, but that keeps the costs lower - this was a great deal.

4.  Barrio Alto Hotel - Checked out this hotel's upstair's bar for a drink with a view.  The hotel is lovely and a short walk to most of the sites.

5.  Pousadas - After WWII, the Portugese government restored many castles, monastaries and convents into hotels in order to retain the country's heritage.  You can intimately experience some of the greatest architecture by staying in these state-owned hotels.

Top 5 Foodie Finds

1.  Tasca da Esquina - We literally happened into this spot on the west side of the Barrio Alto in Lisbon.  We had a delicious 4-course lunch and left it all to the chef.  The chef is renowned in this area:  Vitor Sobral.  The sauted squid and mushrooms was the best dish we had in Portugal.

2.  Casa Velha - Great Portugese seafood spot near the center of Caiscais.  We were craving Paella pre-Spain and our shared serving could have fed a family.

3.  G Spot - Yes, sounds cheesy but we ate lunch AND dinner here in Sintra.  A tiny spot with a chef doing "risky" cooking in Portugal.  Ok, it seemed just good and basic to me.  But don't think this is the land of modern cooking.

4. Beira Mar - This is great outside eating on a little sidestreet in Caiscais.  Delicious seafood and fun crowded, yet elegant atmosphere.

5. Restaurant Albatroz - This is a fancy hotel ideally located in Caiscais.  It didn't make my hotel list as it is a bit too fussy, but we sat outside on the balcony and had great food and a lovely view.

Top 5 Tips

1.  Trains and Trams - These are easy ways to get around. The train from Lisbon to Caiscais is a lovely ride along the water.

2.  Summertime - I wouldn't even hit Caiscais during the winter, as everything to do here is a summer water activity.

3.  Boutique hotels - There are tons of cool small hotels in this area.  Hit Tablet Hotels or Mr. and Mrs. Smith to find great ones.

4. Algrave - I think I would combine this trip with a trip down south.

5. Portugese - We learned how to say the basics in Portugese just to get by, but many people here speak English since there are visitors from all over Europe.  Luckily, some of the phrases were similar to Spanish, so it made things easier.

Top 5 Misses

1.  Castles - One a country is enough for me.  More interesting things to view than the china patterns and fainting couches of royalty.

2.  Service - Service in restaraunts isn't rude per se, but not warm and friendly.  SF spoils me.

3. Pickpockets - We didn't have problems but were warned over and over about problems in Lisbon.

4.  Sushi - Even though seafood here is good, the sushi was slimy.  

5.  A lengthy Lisbon trip - This is a big city, but it isn't like Paris or Rome, where you can wander forever and explore art and culture.  It is cool, but wouldn't make my top 25 city list.

The Amalfi Coast, Italy

I came to Positano in 2006 and Sorrento in 2009 and back to Positano and Praiano in 2013.  The Amalfi Coast is a few seaside towns south of Naples, along with the islands of Capri and Ishcia.  You have lots of options – you could also do the quiet town of Ravello high in the hills with many private villas or head to the easy island of Capri.  Positano is quite touristy and jam packed but is a dreamlike fishing cove. It is still my favorite of the bunch. Sorrento is larger with mixed housing – some rundown family summer homes and some beautiful hotels high above water.  Whatever you are searching for – your sanity, love, passion, saltwater/sun cures – you will find it here.  Don’t expect white sand beaches of traditional coastal vacations.  But there is so much more spirit here.

Top 5 Days

1. Rent a little boat – We rented a little boat straight on the beach one day in Sorrento and went all around Capri island.  We stopped to swim in the caves, got beers at a local bar and then went and had the loveliest seafood meal at an exquisite restaurant t perched above the Blue Grotto.  You just tie your boat up to a buoy and an old Italian man rows you in where they are waiting with towels and prosecco.  If I imagine heaven on earth, it may be this spot. 
2. Sit on a hilltop in your sunhat with a good book, wine, cheese, salami and Bacia chocolates.  All day.  It may be hard to read with those views.
3. Play games on the beach classy Italian woman style – I am so envious of these women that are playing with all generations of their kids and friends.  I feel like they have done this every summer in the same beach chairs with the same wine forever.  An old, happy Italian woman told me “Men all over the world, they are all the same.  They are stupid.  Make sure you have beautiful friends and bambinos around or you will go mad.”
4. Rent a scooter or a SmartCar and weave the Amalfi coast – This is not for the faint of heart.  I think I took a couple years off my life by white knuckling this ride.  They drive nuts here.  But it is so gorgeous and a lasting memory for your shortened life.
5. Explore the side streets of Positano – Even though this is small, you can get lost quickly on all the windy pedestrian only streets and alleys.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Privata Ca' Pa' - This is a cool spot I discovered through Mr and Mrs Smith's web site in Praiano. It is a former huge estate and has magical walks to the water with places to lay out along some cragy coves.  There are only 6 rooms and all have lovely views of the sea.  If you don't like steps, don't stay here.  My dad and I thought it was really special.
2. La Minervetta – Breathtaking terrace and 12 rooms overlooking the Bay of Naples and the antique fishing village of Marina Grande.  This is the quintessential example of “high style, low maintenance.”  I absolutely adored the eclectic mix of nautical, Moroccan, Italian, antique and modern style.  We had a balcony with a spectacular view.  Cons were that service seemed a bit put off with minor requests and it is a long haul down to the beach.  But we liked the fishing beach cause it was filled with old locals, has great casual seafood snack bars and isn’t fancy.
3. Marincanto- Wow, this is a favorite.  In Positano.  Great pool, every room has a view.  I actually prefer this to Le Sirenuse cause it isn't snobby.  Awesome location.
4. Le Sirenuse – I can barely even put this on the list cause it is high style, but a bit high maintenance.  We went off season when it wasn’t crowded and prices were reasonable.  The views are absolutely lovely and Steinbeck stayed here.  Really wonderful views from the pool area and this feels secluded, but is right in the middle of town.
5. Any room with a view – Hotels are expensive here, but there are plenty of lower priced options.  And you’ll be out and about the whole time so it doesn’t need to have a nice restaurant or amenities if you are in one of the larger villages.  I would definitely look for a view over amenities. Check out chicretreats.com for recommendations (though these may be expensive in this area).

Top Foodie Finds

1. Bagni S. Anna – Casual snack bar to play dominoes or jump off their dock  filled with bright yellow umbrellas and sun loungers into the sea. We ordered a simple plate of grilled seafood and it was out of this world.  Perch, tuna, octopus and squid grilled in olive oil with lemon. 9 Euros.  At Marina Grande (the fishing village) in Sorrento.
2.  Il Buco – This Michelin-star rated gem in downtown Sorrento had some of the most amazing seafood, Amalfi style.  Portions were light and filled with flavor.  Impeccable, kind service.   We sat in the outside garden on a perfect night.
3. Club Nettuno – This spot on Capri is away from all the craziness.  The only way to get there is by boat and have a smaller boat take you to the dock.  Amazing meal, amazing view.  Perfection.
4. Max’s – You can find this classic Italian restaurant on one of the hidden side streets in the middle of Positano.  The place is choke full of art and antiques and you can feel the presence of a proud owner.
5. Seafood Pastas – Wish I could duplicate the simplicity of a basic spaghetti with fresh seafood at home.

Top Tips

1. Book Hotels Early – The hotel we stayed at was booked out 2 months in advance.  The finds go quick.
2. Hydrofoil from Naples – This is an easy way to get into the coast and you avoid the bad traffic.
3. Avoid July and August and Winter – This place is dead in winter – and really, the sun and sea are the stars here so would hate to miss it.  August is tough cause it is overly crowded with Europeans on holiday.
4. Get out on the water – The Amalfi Coast is even more beautiful with views from a boat. Plus, the sea is wonderful for a quick dip.  Definitely take a swim in the caves in Capri.
5. Get a driver from Naples and skip renting a car - we used an awesome driver from Charmlimos - she was a mom so she drove slow cause Charlie was getting carsick. Her name is Mariella Prudente at [email protected] and +39 366 45 48 357.

 

Top Misses

1. Capri Marina – Touristy.  Got in and out quick.
2. Naples – Yes, this town is supposed to be so eclectic and cool but parts are dangerous and I guess in our short visit we never saw the beautiful side.
3. Taxi rides – It takes a long time to get from town to town and they will charge a premium for it.  Try to use hydrofoils, scooters, rented cars and your feet to get around.  And I won’t miss their horns.
4. Attitude – Definitely experienced a bit more gruff and curt attitudes here than in anywhere in Italy.  Even though everything is catered to tourists, don’t expect service levels from the States, Asia or Latin America.
5. San Pietro Hotel – This is always ranked really high and has lovely views but it feels very snobby.  I think you would miss much of the charm of being on the Amalfi staying here.  Stop by for a glass of wine on the patio instead.

 

Rome, Italy

MOLTO BELLA! I have had three, too-brief stopovers here and love this city and want MORE.  There is a vibrancy here you find only in New York, Tokyo and London, along with a marvelous sense of history.  When you are visiting sites that were built in 72 AD, you can feel the years of history weighing on every bit of the town.  Growing up in Catholic school, my opinion of Rome was all about big churches and popes and I had no interest in visiting.  Yes, this is part of Rome’s fascinating culture, but the city is alive with fashion, art, food and fun. It is crowded and exhausting - you need to go to the outskirts to really see it.

Top 5 Days

1. Private Tour of the Vatican – We did a 3 hour private tour and it is well worth it.  This holy rolling extravaganza is the second most toured location in the world, right behind Disneyland.  We learned so much from our guide and got to go at our pace.  There is more art to see here then even the Louvre in Paris and the works are not all religiously related.  This history of Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel, the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica are fascinating.  Go on Wednesdays if you want to attend Mass.  Plus, I hit my 39^th country with this country of 900 population.
2. Ramble through Trasterverne – Spend the day ground at ground zero for hip and cool.   Shop, café, wino, stroll and observe.  I would compare this the Greenwich Village or the Mission in SF.  Just a few years older.  ;)
3. Check out Ancient Rome – See the Colosseum, Palazzo dei Conservatori, and the Roman Forums.  There are hordes of people here, so just plan on few hour to soak up the history.
4. Fountain Hop – Get a special map and wander the city by checking out every local piazza with a beautiful fountain as the center piece..
5. Shop for Contempory Art – We saw so many cool contemporary art stores, many quite casual, and I would have love to have come to specifically look for pieces, many established artists and explore other unknowns.

 

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Hotel Eden - I only stayed here on my Starwood points and it was a perfect use of points.  It is in a lovely location, but too high maintenance for my style.  Our room had an awesome balcony overlooking the city – but I never would have dished out the $1,200 per night.   We went to play dominos on the rooftop deck and it was so pretentious and stuffy. 
2. St. Regis - Yep, another stay on points. This is a great city to use any of your hotel points, as the hotel prices are outrageous.  Even the Best Westerns looked nice.
3. Tablet Hotels – I would trust any of the recommendations on this London-based operator’s site.
4. Chic Retreats – Great site to look for a tiny, boutique hotel.  I usually love to get city recommendations from the owners at these small places.
5. Casa Howard – 10 contemporary room , cozy rooms in two locations is like staying at your hip Italian friend’s pad.

Top 5 Foodie Finds

1. Sabatini – This is an elegant, yet casual seafood spot right on Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere with outside seating.   We chatted up a woman from Oakland, CA that had been coming since 1969 for the eggplant parmesan.   Try the seafood pastas and Roman artichokes.  The vibe is full energy in the Piazza so the elegance is mixed with fun.
2. Traverna Flavia - Awesome, authentic spot with great pastas. The carbonara here is one of the best dishes I have ever had.  Do it.
3. Wine Bars – Wine bars are great place to get small bites to each in a casual setting before a night out on the town.  Try hip, tiny Ferrara in Trastevere.  Food all over Rome is mixed especially in the tourist areas, so definitely hit guidebooks or ask the locals for recommendations.
4. Cafes – Make sure to make time to stop for a cappuccino or espresso along the way.  Relax and chat up the locals.  It’s also a great way to wake you up if you are fading after a long day of taking in all Rome has to offer.
5. Hamasei - After 10 days eating Italian and Croatian food, we were ready for some sushi.  We were surprised how good the sushi is here.  The fish is local and fresh.

Top 5 Tips

1. Book private Vatican or Rome tours directly – We booked through our hotel and it was marked up quite a bit.  Try Context Travel at contexttravel.com for Rome’s best art historians and PhDs to school you.
2. Siesta – I guess that is what the Italians shopkeepers do from 1 to 4 pm?  Well, when in Rome.
3. Stay for Week – You still would have tons to do.  Combine a trip to Umbria or Amalfi for the perfect vacation.
4. Get out of the super tourist areas a bit – then you will see true Rome.  And they know how to live.  They are partying, passionately fighting and making out all over town.
5. Don’t be afraid to be a tourist – Romans are proud to show off their city and it is truly filled with tourists.  I don’t care if I am carrying a map, a big ol camara and my white tennis shoes.  The nuns are.

 

Top 5 Misses

1. Skip the big group tours – We signed up for one at the Colosseum, and they ended up having about 30 people in the group.  They spent more time herding the cattle than giving the tour.  Try an audio tour instead.
2. Negotiate Before You Pay – For extra scoops of gelato, renting cars, etc…  Since tourism is down, everyone is trying to make a buck.
3. Watch the meter – Rome’s taxi drivers are notorious for adding costs.  Make sure  the red dot is on #1 before you settle into your seat.
4. Waiters – They move at their own pace and can be gruff at times.
5. Summer – You’ll be praying to the pope to get you outta hell in July and August.  Plus, the city shuts in August and they escape the heat and cool their sins in the ocean.

Tuscany and Umbria, Italy

I love this magical world of rolling hills, vineyards and serene sunsets in central Italy.  I backpacked in Florence right after college, visited Tuscany in 2006, stayed in Umbria in 2009 and rented a villa with my amazing family near Sienna in 2013.  I would highly recommend staying in a little B&B or villa.

Top 5 Days

1. Gubbio – This is an austere, medieval town hanging on the side of a mountain that makes for a perfect town hike on a Sunday afternoon.  The town doesn’t have a lot of tourists – the only folks that are going out of their way to see this authentic town are there for the ceramics or to see the Piazza Grand overlooking town.  It is nicknamed the City of Silence and you will feel like you stepped back in time.
2. Hiking the Hills – Definitely try to stay someplace where you can hike the local hills from right outside your door.  You can visit little hilltop towns or just meet the locals on the way.
3. Hit the vineyards – This can be easier to do in Tuscany than in Umbria because they are around every corner.  Your villa hosts or the locals will make great reservations.  If the area isn’t too hilly, you can do it on a bike. We loved Castello D'Aalbola newar Radda in Tuscany. Sign up for the tour and do lots of tastings.
4. Take a Cooking Class – What better way to learn about the local food?  We took a class at Villa Bordoni that included making fresh pasta.  Somehow I can never seem to replicate the food in the States.
5. Drive the Countryside -  We loved driving in a tiny Fiat Panda through the countryside.  I can’t say enough about the Panda.  Despite its meek appearance we were able to take the car through some off-road terrain that would have given a Range Rover some trouble. It seems like every little town is more perfect than the next.  

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Chic Retreats - The best place to find a cute little private place to stay up in the hills is on chicretreats.com.  This London gal definitely finds great little gems that are high style and most are low maintenance.  You pay $15 to join and get 10% off any of the places you book, so it is well worth if even if you stay one night.
2. Villa Bordoni-  These English restaurant owners spent years searching for the ideal property in Italy to open a luxurious but unpretentious country house hotel and found it in Florentine Chianti.  When they found it, Villa Bordoni was in a dire condition and slowly decaying into the poetically beautiful landscape which surrounds it.  But they opened this 10 room boutique hotel and you can see the love they put into it.  The food and tiny bar are precious.
3. Palazzo Terranova – High upon the hills of Umbria you will find a Palladian-inspired palazzo with dream views of the valleys below.  Pallazo Terranova  is up a windy dirt road and sits on 30 acres of idyllic countryside perfect for hiking among farmhouses and stone homes.  There are only 8 rooms and we stayed in the La Boheme room with big windows overlooking the valley.   For those travelers that are fishing enthusiast, there is even a small pond which is located about a 10 minute walk from the villa with loads of bass.  The place is quite flush and a bit fancy – we would have been just as happy staying at a smaller, less expensive place in Umbria so only stay if you are feeling extravagant.  Unfortunately, vineyards were at over and hour away.
4. Villa del Cielo with Caminetto - we stayed in this wonderful 7 bedroom villa right outside of Sienna.  It had a pook and was a converted chapel.  Quirky but cool.  It was a bit chilly as we had unseasonably cool weather in May but a summer stay should be fine.
5. Mr. and Mrs. Smiths - Check out their website or books for ideas.  Lots of Italy options.

Top Foodie Finds

1. Taverna del Lupo- This 5 star food find in Gubbio was one of the most simple, delicious lunches in all of Italy.  We got this recommendation from Mario Bartelli’s website, who recommends regional local cuisine all throughout Italy.  We had the most wonderful rustic vegetable bean soup with olive oil and crostini and ham, porcini and pea lasagna that was more like a crisp pastry.
2. Truffles – This is the land of truffle mushroom country and makes for fantastic risottos and fresh pastas.
3. Salamis and Hams – Even the truck stops have beautiful cases of prosciutto ham and salamis to choose from.
4. Osteria – this is a perfect place to stop for a thin-crust pizza in Citti de Castello.
5. Villa Bondoni – The food in this small kitchen was suburb and the chef takes great pride in every dish.

Top Tips

1. Don’t be too picky about location – There are so many darling hilltop towns and villas in the remote areas, that you should just pick a villa you like maybe near a town you are interested in the right price range and go for it.  I could be happy with so many locations. We loved Sienna, Radda and Montepuciano.
2. Car rental is easy – Rent the most basic, small car and you’ll have a blast zipping through the incredibly clean and well-marked motorways and small dirt roads.  We got the navigation tool from Hertz and it made it even easier.
3. Know a few key Italian phrases – Unlike the big cities, many of the locals don’t speak a lick of English, so make sure to know a few phrases and bring your phrasebook for binds. Ciao!, Buon Giorno, Per Favore, and Grazie go a long way.
4. Skip July and August –This can be really hot and August can be odd, as all of Italy is on holiday and head for the beach.  May, June, September and October are ideal.
5. Italian Trains – The train system here is clean, efficient and an easy way to travel.  You can easily hop to all the major cities.  Just search online first for time tables. 

Top Misses

1. Skip an overnight in Florence – If my time was limited in Italy, I would go for more time in the smaller towns.  There is fantastic art here but Firenze is quite touristy – without the intensity of a cool bustling city like Rome.  Maybe pick a villa to stay at within an hour’s drive and just go for the day.
2. Check the Euro – The value to the dollar has been all over the map the last few years.  If it is outrageous, opt for really cheap apartments and save your money for a delicious pasta.
3. Don’t move too quickly – It is tempting to want to hit a new place every night since there is so much to see in Italy.  But stay at each location at least 2 or 3 nights so you aren’t spending all your time traveling and to get a bit of information on a place.
4. Heels – Your Manolos may be from Italy but they don’t fit the cobblestone streets.
5. Look for hidden costs – With the small local-owned villas, be clear to settle on a price beforehand (like your extra 10% for Chic Retreats) and make sure it comes off your bill.  And dinners, waters and drinks can rack up at these places.  It seems like you are staying at a friend’s place, but these are still hotel prices.

 

London, England

I have been fortunate enough to hit London for a few business trips over the years.  I’ve also visited my cousin and her family in 2007 and 2009 who live in Chiswick, a garden suburb outside of London.  If I had to move anywhere in the world tomorrow, London would be it.  I think there are 3 cities in the world where I wish I could bottle up the vibrant energy and sell it:  NYC, Tokyo and London.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. My Cuz's Place - Since I’ve stayed in Chiswick the past couple times I have been, I don’t have a great handle on the London hotels.  Everything here is extremely expensive, so I suggest going cheaper.
2. St. Martin’s Lane – This is not cheap, but is a eccentric, hip place in Covent Gardens. 
3. The Arch - great, high-end design spot.
4. The Beaufort -  This little private find is darling but not snobby.  It a charmer near the big shops like Harrods.
5. I would check out tablethotels.com for one of their cheapest rooms.  This is my favorite hotel web site that is based in London so everything they are recommending will be top notch and not too big.

Top 5 Foodie Finds

1. Pub Grub – Much of the pub food is better than that of restaurants.  This can be anything from a ploughman’s lunch (bread, pickle and hunk of cheese), shepherd’s pie or seafood.
2. Fifteen – Jamie Oliver, the author of The Naked Chef, takes disadvantaged youth and teaches them how to cook in an upscale kitchen.  I’ve also been in Amsterdam and it is wonderful.
3. Strawberries and Clotted Cream – A must-have British treat. 
4. Indian Food – The Brits all go for “a curry” after they have been boozing it up, but the Indian food is good any time of day here.  There are great high-end places, or you can get a fantastic meal at the cheap haunts.
5. Borough Market in South London – A huge open air market right along the river with endless food options from Fish restaurant to street food kiosks.  Walk through, get a variety of treats and just eat along the river. Then go for a stroll along the river to check out the historic sites:  London Bridge, Big Ben, Parliament etc.  On Saturdays til 2.

Top 5 Sunday Afternoons

1. Tate Gallery – I love this modern art museum right on the water.  Many of the floors are free – you only have to pay for special exhibits.
2. London Pub Crawl – Folks drink here all the time, so watch some cricket with the locals at pubs.  You have 5,000 pubs in the city to choose from.   Sit and enjoy a few pints or some Pims, a wonderful summer cocktail mixed with fresh fruit, lemonade, cucumber and mint.
3. Shop and stroll in Notting Hill – This is a darling upscale neighborhood to hit lunch and shop for clothes and home stuff.
4. Watch the Changing of the Guard – The Buckingham Palace theatrical event is a fun way to get a taste of the pomp and circumstance of the royal family.
5. Hampstead Heath Park -  Get some food/picnic and spend a lazy day walking around the park. Go to Parliament Hill the top of park for a nice few of the city and there are a few pubs. There's a pub called the Flask (on Highgate West Hill Road) which has a great patio to sit outside.

Top 5 Tips

1. Bring Your Umbrella – Even a sunny day is unpredictable here.
2. Book local flights online – There are some cheap local airlines like Easy Jet that don’t show up on the standard web sites.  Hit kayak.com to see them all.
3. Don’t tip much– Restaurants are only 10% and it is often added in.  No need to tip at bars or taxis.
4. Tube – This is such an easy way to get around the city.  Taxis are expensive, so this is a perfect alternative.
5. Get outside the city for a day or two to the English countryside – Even a couple hours outside the city are a world away and a great way to soak up English culture.

Top 5 Misses

1. London Eye – The line is long and this takes and this has nice views, but not worth it.
2. Piccadilly Circus – This is overblown with touristy nabs.  Yes, many claim it is the heart and sould of London, but I would skip it. Yuck.
3. The dollar to Euro – Whew, is this town expensive. 
4. House of Parliament and the Tower of London – So much more to experience.  See all this with a stroll on the outside.
5. An English Breakfast – Baked beans, liver and blood sausage at 8 am?  This one alone gives English food its bad name.

Croatia

Croatia

I spent a week here in the summer of 2009, along with a week in Italy.  We took a ferry from Venice to Rovinj in Istria and rented a car and drove down the coast to the islands.  This was an aggressive trip and we had to skip Dubrovnik in order to get it all in.  We absolutely loved Hvar Island and could have spent the entire week down on the Dalmatian Coast.  Hvar is the new St. Tropez with lots of glamourous people which makes it fun people watching destination but you can also do it more remote and just avoid Hvar Town.

Top 5 Days

1. Beach Stipanska – Head over on a 10 minute water taxi to this tiny island with a beach club, Carpe Diem.  The beach bar also has wonderful, fresh food, beach lounge chairs and a great swimming spot.  The bar is done in a sexy Moroccan style and the party starts at 10 pm and we heard goes til 4 am.  Of course, we missed that.
2. Plitvicka Lakes – Plitvice is Croatia’s best known wonder with 16 crystal=clear aqua lakes and countless waterfalls.  You can see the majority of it on a 3 hour hike.  You definitely won’t be alone, as this is quite a tourist destination. You don’t need to overnight here – we stayed at the Hotel Jezero and really didn’t like it. 
3. Explore the Roman Ruins – Everywhere you turn there are lovely hilltop towns and Roman ruins.  Driving through Istria reminds me of driving through Italy with the medieval castles, rolling hills and wine vineyards.
4. Learn history from the locals – Even young adults have experienced one the worst wars and ethnic cleansing.  Try to spend time at the local restaurants and learn from the locals.  They are a wonderful, giving community that have seen so much in their lifetime.
5. Get on the water – Hvar claims over 2,700 hours of sun fall per year so get out and enjoy it.  Rent a boat or kayak for the day or just hop in a water taxi or ferry between islands.  There are cute cobblestone paths connecting towns in Hvar that would be fun on a bike or motor scooter.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Villa Angelo D’Oro in Rovinj – This quaint, Bavarian style hotel was smack in the middle of the darling seaside town of Roninj.   You can’t even drive to the hotel, which is on a cute little cobblestone street.   It is filled with lovely Croatian antiques with views to the sea.
2. Riva Hotel – The window to our room opened right on the water where all the yachts dock for the day.  This is modern and ultra chic and we loved the location.  It is part of a collection of 8 hotels, a spa and beach clubs in Hvar and your have an evil little card that gives you passes and pays for them all.   Even though our room is a tiny shoebox, we loved it.
3. Hotel Podestine – If you want to go to Hvar Town but want to be a stone’s throw away from the high-action nightlife, then this is your spot.  It is set amongst palm and citrus trees and is a 20 minutes walk or quick water taxi from the riva.
4. Rent an Apartment – This is one of the most popular things to do and with restaurants, boats and services outside your doorstep, you don’t need all the services of a hotel.  Our friend Mark has cute places in Split and Hvar.  He is a Brit, so you’ll have no problem with a language barrier.  Check out www.hvarandsplt.com.  Tell him Cricket sent you.
5. Grand Villa Argentina – We were going to stay here in Dubrovnik, but stayed in Hvar Town instead.  It looks lovely and is right on the water.

Top Foodie Finds

1. Gostionica Santa Croce in Rovinj – Istrian food reminds me of a mix of Italian and German.  We had superb lamb pasta and grilled squid.  
2. Palaca Paladini on Hvar – This was one of our favorite restaurants of the entire trip with slowed cooked Croatian coastal food.  We had delicious smoked fish carpaccio, scallops and seafood pasta in a delightful garden setting filled with jasmine and orange trees.
3. Lamb or Sqid Peka – Wow, you have to experience this dish.  We were lucky enough to have Mark’s (friend of Andy) neighbors host this at their house on Hvar.  A peka is a metal, ball-shaped lid the covers the main meat an veggies while cooking on a hot ceramic slab.  The lid is also covered in hot ash so it cooks from the top.  You can order these one day in advance at traditional restaurants.
4. Alviz – A local hangout in Hvar with traditional fish soups and seafood pastas.  We went with a large group and the Croatian wine was flowing.
5. Fresh seafood – On the coast, you can’t go wrong with fresh squid, scallops or fish.  Even the small, local, inexpensive places carry quality seafood. 

Top Tips

1. Sailboat or Yacht – This is the way to see the coast.  You can hit 167 little island and stop off at the great cites for fancy dinners and nightlife.   This is not expensive to do at all if you have a group of friends.
2. Go in shoulder season – Late June or September are the ideal times to go.  Winters are dead and July and August we heard are jam packed. 
3. Kunas – Croatia is still not on the Euro so your dollars will go further.  I think the days of this being dirt cheap for Americans has passed, and we found the prices to be slightly lower than the US.
4. Take 2 weeks to do the whole country – We tried to shove too much into one week.  Or hit one week for the southern coast.  There is so much I still want to do after a week there!  I really wanted to head to Mostar in Bosnia for the day from Dubrovnik, but just didn’t have the time.
5. Rent a car only in one country – You’ll pay crazy costs to drop in Slovenia or Italy.  We rented with Hertz and they even brought the car to our Rovinj hotel.

Top Misses

1. SCUBA Diving – Although it was nice to get out on the water, there was very little underwater life and really basic reefs.  We did this through Beach Divers on Stipanska beach and liked the operation.
2. Skip the car in Hvar – We kept our car and headed over on a car ferry and never used it once.  It limited our ferry times and cost extra to transport.
3. Limit the Ferry Use – There are great ferries between Split, Hvar and Dubrovnik , between Venice and the Istrian coast and between Central Italy and Split.  But many are slow and don’t leave that frequently, so you definitely need to plan ahead.
4. Split – With limited time, I would focus on Hvar, Dubrovnik or the smaller islands.  This is great port as a launching pad for the other local sites.
5. Rick Steves’ Book – I went back to my trusty Frommer’s on this trip, as I found his book to be geared toward an older crowd with church recommendations and no outdoor adventures.

Paris, France

I backpacked here, was here on business a few times, have been on romantic holiday and went in 2009 for a weekend to meet my cousin and her darling family that live in London.  I went back in 2012 with 6-month-old baby Charlie.  What a special place!

Top 5 Hotels

I have stayed here a couple times using Starwood Points, so limited experience.  I really only have stayed at the Westin on Starwood and thought it was a perfect location. I would save your money and just stay someplace central.  You’ll be out exploring and partying, so no need to stay at a nice place.  Look into renting an apartment if you have a few people.

Top 5 Restaurants

I went to this city 2 times and didn't think the food was great but third time was a charm!  I watched Anthony Bordain's 100th episode of No Reservations that covered Paris Michelin Star Chefs that opened casual eateries.  Jackpot!

1. Le Comptoir - One of my favorite dining experiences ever.  This is a cool little rustic place with real French food.  Come hungry.  Amazing.
2. Atelier de Joel Robuchon - His other place is too swanky.  This one is really nice and only Prix Fix but you sit at the counter and they bring plate after lovely plate of deliciousness.
3. Le Chateoubriand - Cool casual eaterie with a simple inside.  Jessica Alba was at the next table. Still pricey.
4. Le Bal - Great brunch or lunch spot near Montemarte.  Cool and casual.
5. Search for the perfect Pan de Chocolate - I hope I never find it.  I want the search to last forever!

Top 5 Things to Do

Where to begin…!  There is so much to do here.  I feel like you could just go to Museums forever.

1. Musee d’Orsay – This is my favorite museum in the entire world.  The artwork is nice, but it is the architecture of the old train station that blows me away.  I could spend a whole day here by just exploring a few exhibits and just relaxing under the sun0drenched windows.
2. Explore Mortmarte – This is a great neighborhood with incredible vistas of the city.  Feels totally authentic.  Just stroll and have a pan a chocolate or glass of pinot gris at every café.
3. Canal Tour  - I know this sounds cheesy, but this is so beautiful along the Sienne, and a great way to get your bearings in the city on the first day.
4. Shop and Stroll St. Germain – Lovely little boutique stores and cafes make this an entire day excursion.
5. Eiffel Tower – This is so lovely at night and worth a tourist trip to the top to see the entire city.

Top 5 Tips

1. Do nothing – This is the best city in the world to just stroll and sit in cafes.  I love Frommer’s Day by Day Paris book for neighborhood walk suggestions.  But don’t follow I all – just loose yourself in it!
2. Just enjoy the attitude -- Yes the French are... well, French.  Don't let them get you down.  If I lived there, I wouldn't want tourists messing with the beauty either.  Just soak it in as part of the experience.
3. Ride the Metro - It is easy and a great way to explore real life in Paris.
4. Museums - This is the best collection of museums in the world.  Hit one a day - d-Orsay, Louvre, Pompidou, Palais de Tokyo, the Modern Art Museum, the Rodin... ah.
5. Get ready to hoof it - I've never been to Paris without some kind of trucking, metro, police strike.  They'll strike anything and it brings the city to a halt.  Yet no one seems to mind.  Don't let it ruin your time.

 

Amsterdam, The Netherlands

I was here backpacking after college, then again in 2009 for work.  It is a lovely, quaint city filled with vibrant culture.  A must stop on a trek through Europe.  Don't let the seedy red light and spliffs rap fool you, this is a town filled with art and culture.

Top 5 Hotels

I am not strong in this area, as I stayed at hostels my first go, then at a business  hotel, but I did some research and walked around, and here are some options.

1. The Park -  Nice, centrally located hotel, but I wouldn’t recommend for a holiday. 
2. The Pulitzer – This is on the edge of Jordaan, near the central canals, which is a perfect locations.  Supposed to be great for romance.
3. The Dylan – Designer hotel that looks cool. There are a lot of darling boutique hotels in the central areas like the Lloyd and Hotel Arena that I would also look at. 
4. The College – Hip hotel that used to be a school near the Museum area.
5. Hostels – This is a great area for wonderful hostels.

Top 5 Restaurants

We had some excellent food here.

1. Fifteen Amsterdam – Jamie Oliver’s hip restaurant that employs and trains at-risk young men.  They teach about 15-20 people at a time and many have gone on to cook at other areas of the city.  We had excellent seafood and anti pasta here.
2. Bordewijk – A lovely meal in my favorite neighborhood, Jordaan.  This was a quaint little spot with high-end food that didn’t feel stuffy.  All six of us had an incredible meal.  Definite recommend.
3. DUBLE – This little pub/restaurant is a cozy spot for a Dutch meal. Right near all the tourist spots, but feels a world awa
4. MoMo – A vibrant spot with an Asian flair (which is a welcome change) in the Park hotel. 
5. Brasseries – These are good places to load up on some meat or seafood and beers.

Top 5 Things to Do

1. Red Light District – It is totally safe to check this out at night and a cool experience.
2. Van Gough Museum – Get here early, because the queue can be outrageous.  Really nice to focus just on one artist for a museum visit.
3. Vondel Park – A relaxing park along the canals for a walk or run.
4. Jordaan – Definitely take a walk through this quiet, cool neighborhood and enjoy some beers in wicker chairs outside along the way.
5. Coffee Shops – They have cut them back, but they are still legal.  When in Rome.

Top 5 Tips

1. Biking – Get a map of the less-crowded routes.  This is a wonderful way to explore this small, flat city.
2. Enjoy the culture – The cafes and Red Light District give this a bad name, but this is a really lovely city to explore art and architecture. 
3. Nightlife – People go out here and socialize or listen to live music.  We just explored places close to our hotel, but there are fun clubs like Mansion and wine bars like Vyne that I heard are great.
4. Get to the Museums early – The Van Gough and Anne Frank House are packed mid morning.  Get there early to avoid the queue.
5. Train – I took the Thymes train to Paris and it was only $100, had internet and only took 3.5 hours.  This is a spot that benefits from the amazing European railway system.

Venice, Italy

I did a 2 week trip to Venice, Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast in 2006 and went back again in 2009.  This place is magical.  I would only spend a couple days here. But go before global warming pushes this underwater. The city is alive - Venice is a living, breathing, singular city that seems almost too exquisite to be genuine.  Truly art.

Top 5 Days

1. Go for a run through the canals.  This reminds me of putting on U2's Beautiful Day and being so alive with the spirit here.

2. Peggy Guggenheim Collection – Some of the best modern art in the world is housed in this delightful palazzo right on the Grand Canal.  Her collection includes works from Rothko, Klee, Mondrian and Picasso.

3. Explore St. Marks Square

4. Go art shopping - This is one of the few places in the world I likes to shop.  Beautiful galleries with paintings and blown glass.
5. Sit in outdoor cafes - Gelato, pasta, buffalo mozzarella, sweets, cafe, red wine.  Never too much in Italy.  Oh, then go for another run.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Hotel Danieli - Stayed here on my Starwood points.  It was fancier than I usually opt for, but felt right here.  It is ornate, yet not ostentatious, with carved wood, painted ceilings and Murano glass chandeliers but still has a great bar to kick it in.  In the heart of it all.  If you are going anywhere not within walking distance, just have the gondola pick you up.

2. Charming House DD724 – This tiny, mod hotel is the artsy neighborhood of Dorsoduro is my favorite in town.  The rooms and space are tiny, but you feel like you are staying in a friend’s neighborhood apartment.  We stayed in an apartment a couple blocks from the main hotel.

3. Apartments – This is a great way to save money and really experience the culture here.

4. The Bauer - There are 2 separate hotels, and both are beautiful.

5. Ladrona Palace Hotel - a beautiful boutique hotel with only 53 rooms.

 

Top 5 Foodie Finds

1. Lineadombra – The seafood is suburb at this place on the water in Dorsoduro.  This is away from all the overpriced touristy spots but is a modern, simple fusion meal. 
2. Trattoria Taverna Capitan Unico – A local recommended this for the best clam linguine in the city.  This is a cute local spot on a quiet square.   An excellent place for traditional Italian cuisine away from the chaos.
3. Cantina do Mori - Cute spot in San Polo.
4. Seafood Pasta - I think I had this every day.
5. Gelato - Again, every day.

Top 5 Misses

1. Peddlers - They are everywhere and so annoying.
2. Expenses - This is all tourists and you pay like one.  But there is a reason people have been making a pilgrimage to this magical city for 1,500 years.
3. People -  I love the Italians, but you don't see the same zest for life here as in the other Italian towns.
4. The Rialto Markets – I was expecting some cool fish markets, but this was filled with shopping kiosks filled with lace, beads and cheap ties.

5. Harry’s Bar – Yes, this is on every list of things to do since the Bellini was invented here and Hemingway hung out with friends but it isn’t special and they pillage the tourists with a $17 price tag on the Bellini.

Top 5 Tips

1. Go Now - This really is supposed to be under water soon.
2. Read The City of Fallen Angels - By John Berendt, who wrote Midnight in The Garden of Good and Evil. This is a historical account of the eccentric art world behind the famous 1997 fire of the Venice Opera house.
3. Have a drink on Campo San Margherita – This is a vibrant, happening spot with all the college kids that will take you back to your backpacking  days.  Hit an outside table at Orange or Bar Salus.
4. No cars - It is wonderful to get around anywhere in water taxis and gondolas.
5. Take a Water Taxi from the Airport – This is at least double the cost of the ferry, but well worth every penny to ride into the Grand Canal in style.  Then you can skip the Gondola ride.