Portugal

June 2011

Would have loved to have had time to explore the southern coastal Algrave area but kept this trip to the Lisbon area.  We did this area in 4 Days - 5 or 6 would have been great, but that would be enough for this area.  We stayed in Caiscais (pronounced cash-case), Sintra and Lisbon.

Top 5 Days

1. Explore Sintra - This small, hillside town with Moorish influence was once a summer retreat to many kings and queens.  Just walking through the small town and wandering via an easy bus ride to the royal summer retreat castle is a pleasure.  Only 40 minutes from Lisbon, this is a must.  Lord Byron called it "glorious Eden."

2.  Bike along the coast of Caiscais - We just grabbed bikes from our hotel and rode to a far off lighthouse, the Boca do Inferno (mouth of hell) and into town.  There is a great bike path stretches for miles.  It is a bit hilly but relatively easy.

3. Explore the Barrio Alta in Lisbon - We roamed through this cool area, ate and just explored.  You can cover a lot of the great Lisbon neighborhoods on foot - right next to the Alfama, so hit up both neighborhoods by foot in a day.

4. Cafe culture - Lisbon, like other great European towns, is best explored by walking 1/2 mile or so, then stopping for an espresso or beer.  That's a day in itself.

5.  Swimming in Caiscais - The Atlantic here is cold - think Lake Tahoe cold - but refreshing and the beaches are cute and filled with local families and Euro vacationers.  All the beaches are a short walk to town and there are some cool cliffs to jump from into the water.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

 1.  Farol Design Hotel - This is a hipster hotel in the perfect location in Caiscais, about 10 minutes walk from the center.  I loved the view from the pool, because it sits on short cliffs overlooking the water.  There is no beach here, but it is just a short walk to a few.  The pool and outside bar area are prime for dominoes and a summer cocktail. Request a room with a view of the sea - no terrace needed.

2. Casa Miradouro - Loved this little 6-room B and B in Sintra.  It is a 5-10 walk from the center of town, which we thought was perfect.  Don't think I would want to stay in the town center cause it is touristy.  There is a lovely breakfast outside in the morning and it is on a hill with a gorgeous view of the valley and the Atlantic.  I don't like small B and Bs, as over-zealous owners and teddy bears dressed in lace scare me, but this is large enough to disconnect and was ruffle free.

3.  As Janales Verdes - A wonderful boutique hotel in Lisbon.  There is a darling library upstairs with a beautiful terrace overlooking the water.  There is an honor bar and it is a great place to relax away from your room. The hotel is a bit off the beaten path - maybe a 20-minute walk from the center of town, but that keeps the costs lower - this was a great deal.

4.  Barrio Alto Hotel - Checked out this hotel's upstair's bar for a drink with a view.  The hotel is lovely and a short walk to most of the sites.

5.  Pousadas - After WWII, the Portugese government restored many castles, monastaries and convents into hotels in order to retain the country's heritage.  You can intimately experience some of the greatest architecture by staying in these state-owned hotels.

Top 5 Foodie Finds

1.  Tasca da Esquina - We literally happened into this spot on the west side of the Barrio Alto in Lisbon.  We had a delicious 4-course lunch and left it all to the chef.  The chef is renowned in this area:  Vitor Sobral.  The sauted squid and mushrooms was the best dish we had in Portugal.

2.  Casa Velha - Great Portugese seafood spot near the center of Caiscais.  We were craving Paella pre-Spain and our shared serving could have fed a family.

3.  G Spot - Yes, sounds cheesy but we ate lunch AND dinner here in Sintra.  A tiny spot with a chef doing "risky" cooking in Portugal.  Ok, it seemed just good and basic to me.  But don't think this is the land of modern cooking.

4. Beira Mar - This is great outside eating on a little sidestreet in Caiscais.  Delicious seafood and fun crowded, yet elegant atmosphere.

5. Restaurant Albatroz - This is a fancy hotel ideally located in Caiscais.  It didn't make my hotel list as it is a bit too fussy, but we sat outside on the balcony and had great food and a lovely view.

Top 5 Tips

1.  Trains and Trams - These are easy ways to get around. The train from Lisbon to Caiscais is a lovely ride along the water.

2.  Summertime - I wouldn't even hit Caiscais during the winter, as everything to do here is a summer water activity.

3.  Boutique hotels - There are tons of cool small hotels in this area.  Hit Tablet Hotels or Mr. and Mrs. Smith to find great ones.

4. Algrave - I think I would combine this trip with a trip down south.

5. Portugese - We learned how to say the basics in Portugese just to get by, but many people here speak English since there are visitors from all over Europe.  Luckily, some of the phrases were similar to Spanish, so it made things easier.

Top 5 Misses

1.  Castles - One a country is enough for me.  More interesting things to view than the china patterns and fainting couches of royalty.

2.  Service - Service in restaraunts isn't rude per se, but not warm and friendly.  SF spoils me.

3. Pickpockets - We didn't have problems but were warned over and over about problems in Lisbon.

4.  Sushi - Even though seafood here is good, the sushi was slimy.  

5.  A lengthy Lisbon trip - This is a big city, but it isn't like Paris or Rome, where you can wander forever and explore art and culture.  It is cool, but wouldn't make my top 25 city list.