The Amalfi Coast, Italy

I came to Positano in 2006 and Sorrento in 2009 and back to Positano and Praiano in 2013.  The Amalfi Coast is a few seaside towns south of Naples, along with the islands of Capri and Ishcia.  You have lots of options – you could also do the quiet town of Ravello high in the hills with many private villas or head to the easy island of Capri.  Positano is quite touristy and jam packed but is a dreamlike fishing cove. It is still my favorite of the bunch. Sorrento is larger with mixed housing – some rundown family summer homes and some beautiful hotels high above water.  Whatever you are searching for – your sanity, love, passion, saltwater/sun cures – you will find it here.  Don’t expect white sand beaches of traditional coastal vacations.  But there is so much more spirit here.

Top 5 Days

1. Rent a little boat – We rented a little boat straight on the beach one day in Sorrento and went all around Capri island.  We stopped to swim in the caves, got beers at a local bar and then went and had the loveliest seafood meal at an exquisite restaurant t perched above the Blue Grotto.  You just tie your boat up to a buoy and an old Italian man rows you in where they are waiting with towels and prosecco.  If I imagine heaven on earth, it may be this spot. 
2. Sit on a hilltop in your sunhat with a good book, wine, cheese, salami and Bacia chocolates.  All day.  It may be hard to read with those views.
3. Play games on the beach classy Italian woman style – I am so envious of these women that are playing with all generations of their kids and friends.  I feel like they have done this every summer in the same beach chairs with the same wine forever.  An old, happy Italian woman told me “Men all over the world, they are all the same.  They are stupid.  Make sure you have beautiful friends and bambinos around or you will go mad.”
4. Rent a scooter or a SmartCar and weave the Amalfi coast – This is not for the faint of heart.  I think I took a couple years off my life by white knuckling this ride.  They drive nuts here.  But it is so gorgeous and a lasting memory for your shortened life.
5. Explore the side streets of Positano – Even though this is small, you can get lost quickly on all the windy pedestrian only streets and alleys.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Privata Ca' Pa' - This is a cool spot I discovered through Mr and Mrs Smith's web site in Praiano. It is a former huge estate and has magical walks to the water with places to lay out along some cragy coves.  There are only 6 rooms and all have lovely views of the sea.  If you don't like steps, don't stay here.  My dad and I thought it was really special.
2. La Minervetta – Breathtaking terrace and 12 rooms overlooking the Bay of Naples and the antique fishing village of Marina Grande.  This is the quintessential example of “high style, low maintenance.”  I absolutely adored the eclectic mix of nautical, Moroccan, Italian, antique and modern style.  We had a balcony with a spectacular view.  Cons were that service seemed a bit put off with minor requests and it is a long haul down to the beach.  But we liked the fishing beach cause it was filled with old locals, has great casual seafood snack bars and isn’t fancy.
3. Marincanto- Wow, this is a favorite.  In Positano.  Great pool, every room has a view.  I actually prefer this to Le Sirenuse cause it isn't snobby.  Awesome location.
4. Le Sirenuse – I can barely even put this on the list cause it is high style, but a bit high maintenance.  We went off season when it wasn’t crowded and prices were reasonable.  The views are absolutely lovely and Steinbeck stayed here.  Really wonderful views from the pool area and this feels secluded, but is right in the middle of town.
5. Any room with a view – Hotels are expensive here, but there are plenty of lower priced options.  And you’ll be out and about the whole time so it doesn’t need to have a nice restaurant or amenities if you are in one of the larger villages.  I would definitely look for a view over amenities. Check out chicretreats.com for recommendations (though these may be expensive in this area).

Top Foodie Finds

1. Bagni S. Anna – Casual snack bar to play dominoes or jump off their dock  filled with bright yellow umbrellas and sun loungers into the sea. We ordered a simple plate of grilled seafood and it was out of this world.  Perch, tuna, octopus and squid grilled in olive oil with lemon. 9 Euros.  At Marina Grande (the fishing village) in Sorrento.
2.  Il Buco – This Michelin-star rated gem in downtown Sorrento had some of the most amazing seafood, Amalfi style.  Portions were light and filled with flavor.  Impeccable, kind service.   We sat in the outside garden on a perfect night.
3. Club Nettuno – This spot on Capri is away from all the craziness.  The only way to get there is by boat and have a smaller boat take you to the dock.  Amazing meal, amazing view.  Perfection.
4. Max’s – You can find this classic Italian restaurant on one of the hidden side streets in the middle of Positano.  The place is choke full of art and antiques and you can feel the presence of a proud owner.
5. Seafood Pastas – Wish I could duplicate the simplicity of a basic spaghetti with fresh seafood at home.

Top Tips

1. Book Hotels Early – The hotel we stayed at was booked out 2 months in advance.  The finds go quick.
2. Hydrofoil from Naples – This is an easy way to get into the coast and you avoid the bad traffic.
3. Avoid July and August and Winter – This place is dead in winter – and really, the sun and sea are the stars here so would hate to miss it.  August is tough cause it is overly crowded with Europeans on holiday.
4. Get out on the water – The Amalfi Coast is even more beautiful with views from a boat. Plus, the sea is wonderful for a quick dip.  Definitely take a swim in the caves in Capri.
5. Get a driver from Naples and skip renting a car - we used an awesome driver from Charmlimos - she was a mom so she drove slow cause Charlie was getting carsick. Her name is Mariella Prudente at [email protected] and +39 366 45 48 357.

 

Top Misses

1. Capri Marina – Touristy.  Got in and out quick.
2. Naples – Yes, this town is supposed to be so eclectic and cool but parts are dangerous and I guess in our short visit we never saw the beautiful side.
3. Taxi rides – It takes a long time to get from town to town and they will charge a premium for it.  Try to use hydrofoils, scooters, rented cars and your feet to get around.  And I won’t miss their horns.
4. Attitude – Definitely experienced a bit more gruff and curt attitudes here than in anywhere in Italy.  Even though everything is catered to tourists, don’t expect service levels from the States, Asia or Latin America.
5. San Pietro Hotel – This is always ranked really high and has lovely views but it feels very snobby.  I think you would miss much of the charm of being on the Amalfi staying here.  Stop by for a glass of wine on the patio instead.