Cricket's Nomad Tips

Venice, Italy

I did a 2 week trip to Venice, Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast in 2006 and went back again in 2009.  This place is magical.  I would only spend a couple days here. But go before global warming pushes this underwater. The city is alive - Venice is a living, breathing, singular city that seems almost too exquisite to be genuine.  Truly art.

Top 5 Days

1. Go for a run through the canals.  This reminds me of putting on U2's Beautiful Day and being so alive with the spirit here.

2. Peggy Guggenheim Collection – Some of the best modern art in the world is housed in this delightful palazzo right on the Grand Canal.  Her collection includes works from Rothko, Klee, Mondrian and Picasso.

3. Explore St. Marks Square

4. Go art shopping - This is one of the few places in the world I likes to shop.  Beautiful galleries with paintings and blown glass.
5. Sit in outdoor cafes - Gelato, pasta, buffalo mozzarella, sweets, cafe, red wine.  Never too much in Italy.  Oh, then go for another run.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Hotel Danieli - Stayed here on my Starwood points.  It was fancier than I usually opt for, but felt right here.  It is ornate, yet not ostentatious, with carved wood, painted ceilings and Murano glass chandeliers but still has a great bar to kick it in.  In the heart of it all.  If you are going anywhere not within walking distance, just have the gondola pick you up.

2. Charming House DD724 – This tiny, mod hotel is the artsy neighborhood of Dorsoduro is my favorite in town.  The rooms and space are tiny, but you feel like you are staying in a friend’s neighborhood apartment.  We stayed in an apartment a couple blocks from the main hotel.

3. Apartments – This is a great way to save money and really experience the culture here.

4. The Bauer - There are 2 separate hotels, and both are beautiful.

5. Ladrona Palace Hotel - a beautiful boutique hotel with only 53 rooms.

 

Top 5 Foodie Finds

1. Lineadombra – The seafood is suburb at this place on the water in Dorsoduro.  This is away from all the overpriced touristy spots but is a modern, simple fusion meal. 
2. Trattoria Taverna Capitan Unico – A local recommended this for the best clam linguine in the city.  This is a cute local spot on a quiet square.   An excellent place for traditional Italian cuisine away from the chaos.
3. Cantina do Mori - Cute spot in San Polo.
4. Seafood Pasta - I think I had this every day.
5. Gelato - Again, every day.

Top 5 Misses

1. Peddlers - They are everywhere and so annoying.
2. Expenses - This is all tourists and you pay like one.  But there is a reason people have been making a pilgrimage to this magical city for 1,500 years.
3. People -  I love the Italians, but you don't see the same zest for life here as in the other Italian towns.
4. The Rialto Markets – I was expecting some cool fish markets, but this was filled with shopping kiosks filled with lace, beads and cheap ties.

5. Harry’s Bar – Yes, this is on every list of things to do since the Bellini was invented here and Hemingway hung out with friends but it isn’t special and they pillage the tourists with a $17 price tag on the Bellini.

Top 5 Tips

1. Go Now - This really is supposed to be under water soon.
2. Read The City of Fallen Angels - By John Berendt, who wrote Midnight in The Garden of Good and Evil. This is a historical account of the eccentric art world behind the famous 1997 fire of the Venice Opera house.
3. Have a drink on Campo San Margherita – This is a vibrant, happening spot with all the college kids that will take you back to your backpacking  days.  Hit an outside table at Orange or Bar Salus.
4. No cars - It is wonderful to get around anywhere in water taxis and gondolas.
5. Take a Water Taxi from the Airport – This is at least double the cost of the ferry, but well worth every penny to ride into the Grand Canal in style.  Then you can skip the Gondola ride.

Jamaica

I have been here 3 times.  Back in the mid 90s, in 2005 and with the whole Wardein clan in 2006.  There is a special laid back, rasta vibe here.  You can stay in a nice resort and still experience the culture.  I love it.

Top 5 Days

1. Beach time - totally relaxing to lay on this lovely beach.
2. Go where no locals go - My mom would get up and go into town to the early morning markets to help pick fresh fruits and seafood for dinner.
3. Snorkel and scuba - The underwater magic of the entire Caribbean is here.
4. Floyd's Pelican Bar - THE most UNIQUE bar in the world.  You have to take a boat the get here and it is made of sticks in a sandy area.  They only serve lobster and Red Stripe.  Near Jakes.
5. Go see a reggae show - The music makes this place all the cooler.

 

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Round Hill - Privately owned villas and homes on a hill overlooking a private beach.  I have rented a villa and a whole house with the family.  What is special here is that it is all part of resort - so you have full service, water sports, a water trampoline, a kids club, restaurants, etc... We had full service meals in the house every night - we ate on the deck by the pool overlooking the bay.  Near Montego Bay.  Ralph Lauren has a place there and the style screams high style, low maintenance.
2. Jakes - Part of the Outpost Island group, owned by Chris Blackwell, who owns Island Records. A chic, shabby group of villas on the sea.  Defintely a bit rustic - expect lots of critters around.  The beauty here is it is just locals around - not other tourist and resorts.
3. Strawberry Hill - Another Outpost Island resort up in the mountains for a totally different feel.
4. Rockhouse Hotel - On the water, but not on the beach in Negril.
5. Rent a villa - I looked at tons of places for my family and there is a ton of stuff, though we loved Round Hill.

 
Top 5 Foodie Finds

1. Lobster Everything - I order it in everything.
2. Jerk - Chickem, Steak, Pork.  I love the flavor.
3. The Caves - A really special spot in Negril right on the water.
4. Negril Beach - There are tons of special spots right on the water with reggae music and cheap eats out in the sun.
5. Red Beans and Rice - The local staple and a safe eat even from the side of the road.

Top 5 Misses

1. Big Resorts - There are so many where you would never leave and see anything.
2. Crime - You gotta watch it here.  The nice places have a guard around.
3. Airport - It is crazed with vendors and aggressive taxi drivers. 
4. Hurricanes - We followed one there with my family.  Make sure not to go during hurricane season.

Top 5 Tips

1. Great flight schedules - I think I have been 3 times because it is so much easier to get to than anywhere in the Caribbean.
2. Bring your patience - It is rasta time, so don't expect that marg you ordered to be there in 3 minutes.
3. Red Stripe - Drink the national beer.   A lot of it.
4. Build a good reggae mix for your iPod.  There will be lots of relaxing time.
5. Iriemon.

Zihuatanejo, Mexico

Went here for some R&R after a pretty crazy time in Dec 2008.  We rang in the new year here.  This is by far up and away my favorite place in Mexico.  And La Casa Que Canta is the most romantic hotel I have ever been.

 

Top 5 Days

1. Las Gatas Beach - We would take a water taxi over to the small beach across the bay and drink margaritas, each lobster tacos, swim and take off for scuba.
2. Scuba - Andy got certified from Carlos Scuba Shop, which is the oldest scuba shop in all of Mexico.  We saw sea turtles, sea horses and all kinds of sea critters.
3. Relax on the deck - Breakfast on the deck every morning and evening with dominoes every night.  Many guests never leave the hotels because of the great views.
4. Fishing - Well, we didn't catch anything but had a great time trolling.
5. Go into town for a couple hours- The town is filled with Mexican families on vacation.  It isn't posh but has so much character and people are so nice.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. La Casa Que Canta - I can't say enough about this gem.  Only 23 rooms and they are all cut into the side of a cliff. All have balconies with amazing views of the darling bay.  Spendy and romantic. 
2. The Tides - This is the other big hotel in the area.  It is on the beach and better for families, but we thought it was just a typical resort.  I would recommend other places.
3. Amuleto - Gorgeous 6 room boutique hotel with hip, high style with stunning views.  A bit further out, but only a $4 cab ride to town.
4. Rent a House - Stay in the hills.  I would recommend staying near La Ropa beach.  Don't stay in town.  If you can get your own pool, it is worth it.  You may want to be within 10 minutes walk to the beach.
5. Las Brisas - This is in Ixtapa and is big, but we heard a great place for families.  Andy went years ago with his family. We snorkeled near there and it looks like they have a nice private beach.  Not set with all the other Ixtapa high rises.

 

Top 5 Foodie Finds

1. Amuleto - Most special meal we had here. A must.
2. La Casa Que Canta - Definitely come here for a special meal.
3. Villa de la Selva - A special, happening place in Ixtapa.
4. Tentaciones - Prix Fix menu with an open-air garden view of the bay.
5. Otilia - Lobster tacos and margs at Las Gatas beach.

 

Top 5 Misses

1. Restaurants in Town - Nothing special.
2. Summer - Weather was perfect in January and we heard it is excruciating in the summer.
3. Anything but seafood - It is a fresh catch every day, why eat anything else?
4. Ixtapa - Ziha is worlds away just around the corner.
5. Beaches - This has really pretty beaches, but not the most dramatic in the world.  The charm here is the combo of beaches and mountains.

 Top 5 Tips

1. Cabs - Are safe and aobut $3 anywhere.
2. Look for direct flights - there are some direct flights from SFO on certain days on Alaska Airlines.
3. Rates are drastically different - New Years and Easter are packed cause the Mexican families have the holiday off.  Go in the spring or winter and you will have great weather and not the highest prices.  Yet, we loved New Year's fireworks on the beach.
4. Book in advance - Amuleto and Casa Que Canta book out months in advance.
5. Enjoy the locals - I loved that this was not all gringos.  You get some tourism, but you are with the locals.

Buenos Aires, Argentina and Patagonia, Chile

I went here for a 2 week trip in May of 2008.  We did a week in Buenos Aires, a few days in Mendoza (wine country) and a week down in Patagonia.  Perfect combo!

 

Top 5 Days

1. Strolling through Soho and Palermo -- So great to just walk around and catch the big city vibe. Have an Evita day and go to the cemetery and small museum.
2. Soccer Match - Yes, it is a crazy as you've heard.  The bring in the fans of the opposing team after the game starts and they are behind a chain fence.  Then they leave first while home team fans sit in their seats, cause there is so much fighting.
3. Take a ferry to Uruguay - Walk around the historic town of Colonia. You can also stay overnight at beach resorts.
4. Hit a night out in San Telmo - This was our favorite neighborhood.  Full of character and life.
5. Ride Horseback through Patagonia - We didn't see anyone else for hours.  We rode through streams, over mountains and ended the day at a farm BBQ.

 

5 High Style, High Maintenance Hotels

We stayed at a Luxury Collection hotel using our Starwood points.  It was high style, but also high maintenance, so I wouldn't recommend it.

1. Explora - This is the most remote and wonderful hotel ever down in Torres De Paines, Patagonia.  It is a loooooong way to get there, but well worth it.  It is simple and they make sure you have an amazing hike or horse ride every day.  Perfect!
2. Home Hotel - My friend Lina stayed here in Buenos Aires and raved.
3. Mine Hotel - Another boutique hotel in Buenos Aires we heard wonderful things about.
4. Apartments - Rent an apartment in Sal Telmo in Buenos Aires.
5. Cavas Wine Lodge - This is such a special spot in Mendoza.  You have your own cabana with roof where you can sleep in sleeping bags looking at the stars.  Food, wine, artwork and service are top notch.  The epitome of high style, low maintenance.

  
Top 5 Foodie Finds

1. Desde El Alma - A cozy french bistro in San Telmo.
2. El Gran Danzona - A cool sushi and bar joint.  Very hip.
3. Bar Uriate - Good little stop in BA.
4. Melipal - Our most delicious meal of the whole trip in a vineyard in Mendoza.
5. Explora - We ate gorgeous meals by the fire every night.

 
Top 5 Misses

1. Meat - There is way too much of it.  Try to exlore bites other than steak houses.
2. Pollution - BA is dirty!
3. Tango - This was fun, but very touristy.  If you are going to do it, then go to a little place like El Viejo Almacen in San Telmo.  We did just the show and had a lovely dinner beforehand.  Just not our thang.
4. Mendoza - We liked it, but it was snowing while we were there.  I would have preferred to go to the falls or the Lake District.
5. Big Hotels - There are so many lovely boutiques to explore.

 
Top 5 Tips

1. Weather - Make sure you go the right time of year. We were there in late fall in May, and it earlier fall or spring are tops.  Remember, opposite seasons as the States.
2. Evita - I became obsessed.  I read a biography and watched the movie.  Her story added so much to my love of this area.
3. Cab it - super cheap, no need to get a car.
4. Patagonia - Heck, you are already almost there.  I can't rave enough about it.  It is hell to get to, but worth it!
5. Iguasu Falls - people raved and we wish we would have done instead of Mendoza.  Next time.

South Africa

I went on the trip of a lifetime here with my friend Lina Restrepo during the summer of 2006.  We did Cape Town area, Johannesburg and safari at Mala Mala.  So special!

Top 5 Days

1. Driving through the bush - a day in a jeep on safari is life changing.
2. Walk Cape Point
3. Apartheid Museum - can't miss this in Johannesburg.  One of the best museums in the world.  I couldn't soak it all in quick enough.  It is so amazing that this struggle happened in our lifetime.
4. Cape Town Wine Country - With the mountains in the background, this tops Sonoma, Italy and France.
5. Hike up Table Rock Mountain - tough haul, but it only takes and hour or two.  The views up top make it so rewarding.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Mala Mala Game Reserve - if you are going to do safari, save up to do a few nights on a private reserve.  You are only sharing the entire reserve with about 60 other people, so you get to see all the animals close up.  You are assigned a safari guide who knows EVERYTHING about the animals - I learned so much and it is so magical.
2. The Twelve Apostles - I suggest staying outside of downtown Capetown and staying along the water.  This one looked like a great location.
3. Melrose Arch - a hip hotel in a safe area of Johan
4. Singita - this is a high-end game reserve that is always written up
5. Mount Nelson - this looked nice in Cape Town

Top 5 Foodie Finds
There wasn't a lot of great food here, so I am not sure what to recommend.

Top 5 Misses

1. Exploring the city of Cape Town - there are so many beautiful things to do outside the city, but we did a city tour and it was really boring.
2. Tour of the Junk Towns - uugh! they take tourist in just to manipulate them into giving money.  I hated this!  It was part of an apartheid tour in Johan that I would skip altogether.
3. Gamey Meat - I was practically veggie here
4. Big Safaris - again, go for the splurge and get off the beaten track
5. Cape Town Bus Tour - we spent a day doing this - we should have hit the wineries

Top 5 Tips

1. Watch Tsotsi - amazing, disturbing movie about Johan
2. Read the Power of One - Bruce Courtney's story of a young white Aafricans boy growing up in the 1940's who overcomes his own history with boxing.
3. Read the Bang Bang Club - about some photojournalists capturing the apartheid struggle and civil fighting in the 1990s.
4. Read Cry My Beloved Country - by Alan Parsons.  Another great book that shows the struggle of apartheid.
5. Ask - I felt like even with such a wicked past, that people were so hopeful about the future.  And they are all so willing to talk about it.

Vietnam

I went here on a 2-week solo trip when I was leaving Australia, headed back to live in the US in Summer 2007.

I only did North Vietnam, but would love to do the central coast - Hoi An and the Mekong Delta.  This is an absolutely amazing country.  I can't wait to go back.

Top 5 Days

1. Sapa - I went with a guide on the overnight train to stay in this hilltop town on the Laotian and Chinese border.  The area has little markets where the mountain people live.  From there, we went into some tiny villages with Chinese communities.  No electricity and a woman looked at me and screamed and brought me a sun umbrella.  She thought I was going to burn up because I was so white.
2. Halong Bay - This is a mysterious body of water filled with islands, islets and huge rocks sprouting out of the water.  You explore the area on a junkboat, where you stop to swim and kayak in the caves.
3. Hit the Internet Cafes - I was astounded at the fact that there are still blacklisted sites that are not allowed in the country.  The streets are so young and vibrant, that you forget this is still a communist country.
4. Markets and Cooking Class - This may be my favorite food in the world.  Go to a street market and grab the fixings to cook a fresh meal.  Pho and fresh spring rolls are amazing.
5. The Hanoi French Quarter -This was ruled by the French when Hanoi was the capital of French Indonesia (1887-1954). This area is filled with tree-lined, wide-open boulevards that are so elegant, abeit run down.

Top 5 High Style, Low Maintenance Hotels

1. Sofitel Metropolitan Hanoi - This is a swanky hotel restored to its 1920s heritage with tons of character in the heart of Hanoi.  Ask for one of the rooms in the old wing.  You can walk to eats, shopping and arts from right here.
2. The Life Resort Quy Nhon - I did a week-long yoga retreat here.  Probably not worth going this far out of the way, but special.
3. Junk Boat on Halong Bay - This is a must and not far from Hanoi.  Stay overnight on one of the boats, I did the Emaraude.  Nice cabins and the bay is amazing. High style, low maintenance on the water.
4. Victoria Express - Stay overnight in the sleeping cars to get up to Sapa, a Hill town in the North.
5. The Victoria Hotel - Wonderful food, up on a mountain in Sapa.  Full of charm.

Top 5 Foodie Finds

1. Cha Ca La Vong - In Hanoi, they only serve Cha Ca, which is a lovely fried fish dish.  
2. Street Eats - You can get the most amazing Pho from street vendors for $3 a pop.
3. Green Tangarine - A delightful little French villa in Hanoi.
4. Bamboo Bar - In the Sofitel.
5. Deck at the Victoria - I had the most amazing food, all served with fresh herbs in Sapa.  I ordered the imperial rolls every meal.

Top 5 Tips

1. Guide - Pay for a guide.  For about $15 a day, an English-speaking guide will help you get the know the area.  For an extra $20/day, you get a driver that will take you outside the city, to Halong Bay, etc...  Worth it to learn more history.
2. Cambodia - If you are headed all the way to Vietnam, definitely include a plane ride to Cambodia.
3. Read Up Country - By Nelson Demille.  This is a fiction thriller, but has great insight into the area.
4. The American War - Read your history about what we call the War in Vietnam.  It is appalling  what we did here.
5. Hang with the Teens- This is the fastest growing area for under 30s in the world.  Vibrant streets filled with educated youth that are predicting the fall of Communism.  In a street market in Hanoi, a young girl with broked English eyes lit up when I told her I worked at Yahoo!  She gasped and said, "You just lost your leader." That is how I learned Terry Semel was out.

Top 5 Misses

1. Dog - Make sure you don't eat it.
2. Mopeds in Hanoi - Walking across the street is like playing  a game of frogger.  They will run you right over.
3. Visa - You have to get one weeks in advance.
4. Communism - Amazing this is still a communist country.  It isn't popluar with the kids who want change.
5. Shopping - I was not at all interested in the little trinkets and art.